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Introduction

After hearing the news that Sillybutts was pausing the development of his Silly Shell kit for the Nerf Pilot i decided to try my hand at the same concept:
Introducing the SillyPilot!

This kit requires minimal modding of the Pilot and minimal hardware too

Hardware

You'll need the following hardware:
~50cm of 3mm elastic cord
2 M3x16mm hex cylinder head bolts
2 M3x20mm hex cylinder head bolts
2 M3x25mm hex cylinder head bolts
And, depending if you have easier access to metric or imperial o-rings, you'll also need:
3 Dash 016 o-rings
or
3 16mm id x 2mm cross section o-rings
Alternatively, if you choose to use my TPU gasket as the breech seal you'll need only 2 o-rings.

Printing instructions

All pieces can be printed with 5 perimeters and 15% infill, all files where exported in the right orientation
The only files that need supports from the build plate are the Barrel Releases and the Barrel Shroud.
Speaking of the barrel releases, they are designed to be operated by the index finger of the hand holding the blaster, so the RH and LH indicate which hand you should use for that release, or you can print the \u201cambi\u201d one and it can be used by both hands, but for that one it's strongly recommended to file the sloped face on the underside, in order to render a bit smoother the breech's closure.

Pilot modifications

First of all disassemble the barrel of the Pilot, then you can proceed with the cutting:

(I'm sorry if the photo doesn't show clearly what you should cut, but i only have one Pilot, if someone can send me a clear photo of an unmodified breech, i will use it instead, also, mine was previously modified for other mods, so the yellow part has been trimmed, but for this kit none of those cuts are needed)

To remove the upper lip mentioned in the second image i've used a small chisel tip for hobby knives, but you could use a normal hobby knife blade, some small knippers or you could also file it with a rounded plastic file, if you choose the file i recommend to use some grease to help the o-rings seal on the grooves left by this operation.

Assembly

Before starting with the instructions let me say that these photos where taken with older versions on the components, so some parts could have some slight differences, but nothing that changes the assembly. Let's continue to the assembly guide.

Slide the two o-rings on the \u201cMain barrel\u201d part.

Then you can glue the front o-ring in its groove, or insert the TPU gasket in place
(pictured is the TPU version).

Now you can insert the \u201cMain barrel\u201d in the Pilot's breech, Be sure to push it all the way in, or you will not get a good seal. Also be sure that the screw holes are pointing up!

Insert the \u201cCam plug\u201d in the cam.

Now you can slide the \u201cBarrel shroud\u201d on the \u201cMain Barrel\u201d piece.

Screw the M3x16mm bolts in the holes at the top.

And one of the M3x25mm in the hole at the bottom.

Insert the \u201cBarrel release\u201d of your choice in its hinge and screw it in place with one of the M3x20mm bolts, be careful to screw into the hole nearest to the lever!!!

now we can put in place the first piece of elastic cord, start by tying a knot at one end.

Then feed the other end in the holes showed in the following pictures.

Now tension the string as much as you can and tie another knot at the loose end

Check if the lever has enough strength to retain the breech, otherwise you will need to tension the cord even more.

When the cord has been sufficiently tensioned, you can cut and sinder the excess cord.

Now let's focus on the front part of the kit, the \u201cBreech\u201d:

First of all cut 2 pieces of cord of around 15cm, sinder both ends and tie a knot only on one end of both cords, just like with did for the \u201cBarrel release\u201d, then feed the loose ends in the holes of the \u201cEjector\u201d. Since the \u201cEjector\u201d is not symmetrical reference the pictures for the correct orientation, but as a general guideline, the flat face goes at the front.

Now feed the cords through the holes at the front of the breech.

Next, just like the \u201cbarrel release\u201d, tension the cords and tie them.

Now slide the \u201cEjector catch\u201d in its place and screw the last M3x20mm in its hole.

Next, like always, tie a knot on one end of the cord and feed the other end in the holes of the \u201cBreech\u201d and under the hook of the \u201cEjector catch\u201d.

Tension the cord, tie the last knot and cut the cord in excess.
To finish off screw the last M3x25 in the holes of the \u201cBreech\u201d and the \u201cCam plug\u201d

And you're done!

Operation

Performance - WIP
All test were conducted with an unmodified Pilot, apart for the installation of the kit.
I don't have Rival, Ultra, Hyper and N1 ammo to test, if someone can submit results, they will be added to the table.

Dart Type	Shell	FPS average
Full length	Elite x1 PCAR	85
Short dart x1	Elite x1 PCAR	90
Short dart x2	Elite x1 PCAR	60
Full length	Bottlenose 8 inches	110
Short dart	Bottlenose 8 inches	155
Full length	Elite x3	56
Short dart x3	Elite x3	62
Short dart x6	Elite x3	55
MEGA Accufake	MEGA Accufake	62
MEGA XL	MXL Rifled	35

Final notes
The ejection system doesn't have enough force to eject larger shells, like the Bottlenose or the Sniper ones, but you can still easily grab them via the lip at the bottom of the shell.
I would strongly thanks Sillybutts for the creation of the Silly Shells and for giving me the idea of this kit, i really hope that some day we will see his version of this kit.
And i also want to thank Spyr for designing the Yeethammer, because its ejection system was a strong inspiration for the one of this kit.

Also, here is a photo of the sight picture with the kit

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This kit is designed to use Silly Shells

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