Absolutely love the model and the finished look. Printed in Polymaker Purple PETG, and Hatchbox Midnight Purple PETG accents.
Looks nice - thanks for the compliments!
@JohnSC_2229381 really great work on it, I am loving the vibe change with this upgrade. Thank you so much, John!
Could you share your clipper config files that you got coprint to work with the SV08? Thanks
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@Patsprints_279430 https://github.com/ovrCaffeinatd/3d-printing
Although, I replaced the induction probe with a btt eddy, so you'll have to change a few things. (edited)
@ovrCaffeinat_2372764 awesome, thank you
I tried these. Prints really good. Rewinders work great with my MMU3. Thanks a lot for this!
Do you have a wiring diagram for this project? I am really interested on how you set it up. I am also exploring the co-print kcm options.
@DamionCardel_2311946 I will be putting something together over the next couple of days/week or two (or when the CoPrint arrives). My main processor board on the SV08 died so I am replacing it with a BTT Octopus Pro and an RPI, so I am busy designing mounts and getting them printed (thank goodness I have other reliable printers!). I think just about every square inch under the printer is going to be filled. I am also going to automate the stuff on the top hat with the BTT controller including a spare MOSFET I had from an earlier printer to run the heater (it is available on line for just a couple of dollars). So the short answer is not yet, but probably coming as I get it figured out.
@JohnSC_2229381 Slight chance of plans - I found a BTT Pi v1.2 in my spares pile and. Will be using that instead of the real RPi for a couple of reasons. First it is powered from 24v input so I don’t need any other PS for it, and second it is laid out better to fit into the space on the SV08.
Small parts in numbers 4 and 8. Snapped off - too fragile. But otherwise I like it. (I should have chosen different color for base. Plus pattern on top surface too) (edited)
I cant acess the link off the corexy conversion. Maybe you still have it as a draft
@TechPrintLab_1400073 I just checked, it is published and all 4 stl files are there and downloadable. What link are you having trouble with?
Printed out nice. I printed it in galaxy gray ABS. Everything fit well. I modified one of the panels to hold an enclosure heater unit. Printed the coprint panels as well for when I finally install the coprint setup.
Hi @JohnSC_2229381, would it be possible to get the step file for the switch panel? I'd like to make a modification to it so it can fit a temp controller and PTC that is 24v by default. Love everything you have provided so far! (edited)
After attaching a Micro Probe and rewriting the Probe macro, when I executed PROBE DEPLOY, the target point on the Z axis advanced by one point, and the message "No trigger on z after full movement" appeared, making it impossible to home in, and I wasted a day. However, I realized that if I changed "homing_retract_dist: " in the [stepper_z] section from 5.0 to 11.9 or higher, it was successful. By the way, if you set it to 0, it will not descend and will be set to zero position. I think this is some kind of bug, but I thought I'd write it down in case anyone is having trouble in a similar situation.
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Even just rewriting the PROBE section of the original SOVOL image didn't make a difference _(┐「ε;)_
Why is everyone doing so well?
I found the cause...
activate_gcode:
Probe_Deploy
G4 P500 # allow time for probe to deploy before homing Z
Changing P500 to P1000 fixed it completely.
I think this is because I neglected to install a pull-up resistor, which worked without it, and that extended the operating time.
I'm sorry for polluting the thread with a story that is not directly related.
Can you upload the 3 mm version again. There seems to be an error in the STL model. (a hole in the corner). It also shows on the 3D viewer. (edited)
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@avaghon_204609 I have run into that kind of incompatibility before. I use Simplify3D as my slicer and it has no problems with these files. But I have run into this kind of issue before. Thanks for letting me know, I will suggest that repair function to others that see this happen!
@JohnSC_2229381 Hey checking it out, while I do have Fusion, I'd suggest still reuploading the STL if possible (the newest files for 2mm 3mm and 4mm all have errors). The built in repair in the the Slic3r based slicers don't quite lead to flat walls that would be ideal for printing.
hello John
great joob, i am interesting with this projekt. can you tell more about elektronic side of this projekt. do you youse orginal mainbord from printer??? i weait for your update wit more information.
Hi John. Great work. I was thinking of doing an upgrade to linear rails, but keeping the motion system as is. But, after this, I might just go for gold and change everything.
How has your experience been so far? Are you happy with the results?
@GMalan_1491971 Very much so. My prime objectives were to learn to be comfortable working on printers (I bought this one pretty cheaply as a refurb unit), and to remove weight to try to accelerate the printer and reduce issues with momentum caused artifacts on the prints. This X axis is so much lighter than the heavy metal parts on the original printer it operates like a completely different and much faster device. And the education including learning how the corexy operation worked was worth while as I have now also built a Voron Zero and done massive updates to a Sovol SV08.
@JohnSC_2229381 , thanks for the reply.
I will also like to see corexy in action to really grasp how it works. So what better way than to install it yourself.
Did you keep the X axis motor or did you replace it? I haven't checked yet if it's possible to remove the shaft that goes all the way to the other side.
Does the top hat interfere with the stock spool holder location?
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@JohnSC_2229381 Ok, thank you for letting me know
@Logtrimmer this is the side of the printer with the relocated spool holder. (edited)
Do you have a wiring diagram for this project? I am really interested on how you set it up. I am also exploring the co-print kcm options.
Hi where did you get the extention cable for the Y motor? I am searching for one but without any success :D
@SauliusZ_2643915 There was a guy on Etsy that was making them, but he did not reply to me in time. I found a kit on Amazon that let me build it. https://www.amazon.com/2-54mm-Connector-Kit-Compatible-Pre-Crimped/dp/B0CM315RFP/ref=nosim?tag=psv08printer-20
@JohnSC_2229381 Nice, I ordered something from AliExpress, I can post the result if I get something usefull
I just printed this and was getting ready to install it. I think it should be mentioned on the details screen that this is "incomplete" in it's current form and/or requires heat set threaded inserts.
@tooling_lee could you then share the remix for M3 ?
Thanks for the code and instructions. It works great after correcting a huge mistake I made. Just so no one else blows out their microprobe like I did because it was hard to tell which was pin 1 on the JST connectors I am including some photos. Also a full photo of my harness. I had it backwards the first time and got the funnysmell (TM). (edited)
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@MKayed_413979 sorry but look at those 2 pictures, they are a mirror of each other, one of the 2 must be wrong
@federicoalban_132953 I see where your confusion might be. I labeled them in the correct pins as the OP labeled them. When plugged in the connecter will be spun the other way. Just note when you are looking at the empty pin in the direction I took the close up pictures is how you should wire the connectors. In other words, looking at the connecter with the locking tabs towards you. No image is mirrored. It does not matter how it is plugged in as it could plug in upside down and you would be looking at the wires in a completely different orientation again.
Works great so far! Probing seems to be very accurate - finally :)
I took one of the two included microprobe connectors (included with my BIQU V2 probe) and cut the 5th pin off to make a custom 4-pin connector for the UART - didn't want to buy a whole kit just for one connector... Currently only mounted on one side - waiting for the heat insert to make the other side fit.
Btw - the probing seems to be consistent, so maybe just probing 2 times is enough? 3 times adds a bit of time to the start sequence.
@TeknikFrik First layer is completely fused :) And first layer of benchy is properly printed without squishing the second layer into the bed.
