Collapsible Sun Sword Sun Blade

Update 1/26/2025: I will be updating the models here with some new/better version that will be named according due to the makerworld controversy, please continue to enjoy the model and post pictures of your makes for feedback, that way i can make this model better in the future. I do suggest the 3mf model with the ending name of “New Cut 2025” 

Happy Printing!

Original Models and Licenses:

• Collapsible Sword Model: Thingiverse - Katana by GarrettHolst (CC BY-SA 3.0)
• SunSword Model: Printables - SunSword from Curse of Strahd by JesusAnchondo_643583 (CC BY-NC 4.0)
• Sword Cap: Printables - Guard Cap for Collapsing Katana (CC0)

License for Combined Model:

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Project Overview:

I began 3D printing a few months ago, starting with small projects and gradually moving to more complex ones. This combination of models has been my most ambitious project to date, aimed at enhancing my skills in model making and modification. I enjoy creating physical items for my D&D campaigns and Ren Fair costumes, finding that they add a layer of immersion and enjoyment.

Combination Process:

SunSword Preparation:

Download and Resizing: I first downloaded the SunSword model, as it was the cleanest version available. The model was too large for my print bed and for some other sword models I considered, so I scaled it down to 66% in my slicer software.

Collapsible Sword Integration:

Model Selection: I tested various sword models to find the best fit for integration with the SunSword, ultimately selecting the Collapsible Sword model. This model required minimal alterations to the SunSword and balanced well in terms of blade length and hilt scale.

Alignment and Modification: I aligned the two models and used two modified cylinders for the integration:

First Cylinder: Encased the collapsible blade, replacing the original handle to fit within the SunSword’s handguard.

Second Cylinder: Slightly larger than the blade dimensions, it was used to carve a section out of both the first cylinder and the Sun Sword model.

Model Combination:

Assembly: I combined the sword model, the first modified cylinder, and the SunSword model. The combined model was then put back into the slicer for further adjustments.

Cutting and Pinning: The handle was cut in half to keep the collapsible sword intact within the SunSword. The pommel was shortened due to height constraints, and pins were added for easy reassembly with glue.

Provided Files:

Full Uncut Model

Cut Version in Separate Parts

Multiple .3mf Files: These include various settings for different filament types, such as standard filament, Elegoo Clear PLA, and Elegoo Silk Gold PLA.

Filament Settings and Printer:

Bambu Lab P1S (No AMS at the time)

Elegoo Clear PLA Settings: Bambu P1S

0.4mm nozzle

• 0.20mm Standard Preset
• Quality - Basic Settings
• Strength:
  • Detect Thin Walls
• Speed:
  • Initial Layer 25mm/s
  • Outer Wall 180mm/s
  • Inner Wall 280mm/s
  • Sparse infill 250mm/s
  • Internal solid infill 230mm/s
  • Support 100mm/s
• Support - Enabled
  • Type tree(auto)
  • Threshold angle 35
  • On build plate only enabled

Elegoo Silk Gold PLA Settings: 

0.4mm nozzle

• 0.20mm Standard Preset
• Quality - Basic Settings
• Strength
  • Detect Thin Walls
• Speed
  • Initial Layer 25mm/s
  • Outer Wall 40mm/s
  • inner Wall 280mm/s
  • Sparse infill 250mm/s
  • Internal solid infill 230mm/s
  • Support 100mm/s
• Support - Enabled
  • Type tree(auto)
  • Threshold angle 35
  • On build plate only enabled

• Cap Modification:
  • Scaled the guard cap up to 102.50%

• RECUT 3MF Supports:
  • Be VERY careful as the supports that connect to the blade tip are very small and fragile, if the blade does not extend all the way on the first time there is a possibility that the support that connects to the blade tip can become logged inside the model if the tip is the only part that collapses down into the handle and provide a slight rattle. This may also cause the blades to not properly collapse all the way down as they end up being slightly recessed.

• Cuts if using full model STL
  • Starting from the bottom up
  • 1st cut: height 42.78
  • 2nd cut: height 188.27
  • 3rd cut (if needed): height 171.14
  • You are welcome to cut the model however you like, this is what had worked for me
  • Do be careful when cutting around the handguard and a few inches into the handle as you do not want to disturb the collapsible blade within and have issues arise.
• Custom Cut
  • Honestly Cut it however it will best fit your printer, The main part to be careful about is the blade, when cutting start by separating the hand guard/handle and the lower handle/pommel then continue cutting however necessary. If someone finds a good way to cut the model so that blades can be printed separately please comment and share the post to the threat here.

Additional Features:

Resin Gem Mold/Negative Gem Mold: A negative mold model allows for casting a custom resin gem in any color. Use hot glue to seal the thin corners, fill with mold-making silicone, and once cured, cast the gem in resin.

Assembly From 3MF Files:

1. Make sure the blade functions as it is supposed to and slides all the way out to full length.
2. The connectors along the side of the print in place sword section end up being pretty snug so don’t be afraid to sand the down a bit or carve away a small amount of material on the connecting holes for the wings as well as using some physical persuasion.

Finishing Process:

Assembly and Priming:

Glue all pieces together and tape off the blade section.

Apply Rustoleum filler primer

Apply some form of spot putty to fill in the seams and cracks if you have any. 

Sand and reapplying as needed to smooth the model.

Painting:

Apply Rust-Oleum High Performance gloss black to the handguard and pommel, using at least two coats for a high gloss finish. Avoid touching these areas after curing to prevent fingerprints.

Rub graphite powder into the gloss black using a cosmetics brush or a paper towel. If issues arise, use a thinner base layer, apply clear coat, wait 10-15 minutes, and reapply graphite powder 2-3 times, with a clear gloss spray paint coat between each pass.

Final Touches:

Remove the tape and lightly coat the top with clear gloss spray paint.

• Additional option: If your tape job for not painting the blade does not look very clean you can add some black hand painted acrylic to the areas around where the blade extends then use mod podge or some form of clear coat to prevent peeling.

Wrap the handle with real or faux leather strips, gluing them in place for an authentic look and feel.

• Optional: after casting the resin gems make sure they are not too thin and not see through in any manner, apply your preferred glue such as Loctite super glue and wait for it to set.
• Later in this project I had found the cap to the original blade model, it can be printed and added, painting is optional for this piece. The use cases I see for the cap is for cosplay and if giving this to a player in a D&D campaign you can leave the cap on until the player receives the blade to make the sword whole again. (part of the story for Cos [Curse of Strahd])

Collapsible Sword Integration:

Model Selection: I tested various sword models to find the best fit for integration with the SunSword, ultimately selecting the Collapsible Sword model. This model required minimal alterations to the SunSword and balanced well in terms of blade length and hilt scale.

Alignment and Modification: I aligned the two models and used two modified cylinders for the integration:

First Cylinder: Encased the collapsible blade, replacing the original handle to fit within the SunSword’s handguard.

Second Cylinder: Slightly larger than the blade dimensions, it was used to carve a section out of both the first cylinder and the Sun Sword model.

Model Combination:

Assembly: I combined the sword model, the first modified cylinder, and the SunSword model. The combined model was then put back into the slicer for further adjustments.

Cutting and Pinning: The handle was cut in half to keep the collapsible sword intact within the SunSword. The pommel was shortened due to height constraints, and pins were added for easy reassembly with glue.