This is a case designed to hold a GBS-8200 video board and my Commodore 128 RGBI-to-RGBA converter board.
The bottom half features cooling vents, holes for the two video connectors and the power connector, and extra holes for a secondary power jack and power switch (since the GBS board has no provision for the latter), mounting studs for the GBS-8200, and mounting ridge and clip for an ESP8266 WeMos D1 Mini module, for those who run GBS-Control firmware on their 8200's, as I do.
The top cover features an inset design with snap-in spring-loaded latches, a snap-in nameplate, and button extensions with integrated retainer/return springs (these are supposed to snap-in but in my print they're too loose, so I just use glue). The spring-loaded latches can be removed once inserted, if necessary, but they may be a tight fit depending on your printer's output quality. The top cover also has clip-in mounts for the RGBI board.
As this is designed for use with a Commodore 128, it features the Commodore logo on the top cover nameplate, and ridges on top near the back that resemble the cooling vents found on most Commodore computers and peripherals.
Although I designed the top cover receiver slots with adequate gaps for the retainer clips to fit well, you need good bridging performance with your hardware and filament, or you'll need to fill the slots with soluble support material.
All parts should be printed as oriented in the STL files (no need to rotate/flip anything).
The Blender project file makes use of my 3D printing toolkit project (from which it pulls some materials): https://www.printables.com/model/16640-my-blender-3d-printing-partsmaterials-library
Printing:
The nameplate is designed for multi-color printing, just switch to blue filament at 2.4 mm, and then red at 2.7 mm. A .3MF is included that's already set up for this (it also contains a few settings to help ensure the text prints using perimeter loops rather than thin walls, and a couple of small priming blocks, positioned to ensure that the nozzle will not be on the nameplate when the filament change occurs, and to ensure it's at normal pressure before the next print move on the nameplate).
You'll want to print the buttons insert in black or blue.
You'll need to enable thin wall mode to get the text next to the button holes in the top cover to print properly.
The main body and buttons insert have their own support objects built-in - no extra supports are needed.
Use 0.1 mm layer height for the buttons insert, clips, and nameplate.
I recommend sanding the enclosure lightly, just to make it more closely-match the matte finish of your C128.
Note: my RGBI board has been modified from the standard issue Protovision model, in that I've removed its 7805 regulator so that I can power it, the GBS board, and the ESP8266 module all from a single 5v source.
Filaments used in this project: Atomic khaki PETG, Atomic deep black PETG, Atomic royal blue PETG, and Atomic perfect red PETG.
2024-07-28: More miscellaneous changes:
2024-02-14: Many changes:
2017-10-18: Multiple changes
2016-05-28: Big redesign of the case!
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.