LtDan's Trumpet, slightly fancier ;-)

This is a remix of LtDan's printable trumpet, with just a few modifications.

I've reworked the tops of the valves to give them screw-on caps, which are themselves designed to be printed in two parts (brass/gold, and white), so that you could get the look of some material inset into the button/top. This also brings along a minor modification to the valve top plate to shrink the holes slightly, though I chose to use the one with the larger holes.

I've also added two snap-on brackets to pull the lead and bell pipes together against the valve assembly so that they won't be at risk of breaking from too much bending.

Other than the files I modified, the rest of LtDan's original files are present in this project. By extension, if you want to, you can just print the replacement valves, valve tops, valve body cap, and support brackets, and use them as drop-in replacements for the original parts.  If a file has a capital “STL” as the extension, it's one of the original files, those with lowercase “stl" are my changes.

Sadly, as good as my print looks, I can't say that it's any more playable than the original, but that's okay, I can't play a trumpet anyway, I just made this for decorative/ornamental reasons.

Print instructions

Just print one of each stl file (supported versions or not, as your needs dictate) and fit 'em together, and you can use 0.2 mm for everything.

On the valve pins piece, I highly advise using one of your filaments which has really strong layer bonding (and paint the outer surfaces if necessary), otherwise the pins may break off inside the valve chamber during assembly/disassembly.

You will almost certainly have to do some sanding on the various mating surfaces between the bell pieces and between the lead pieces, and on the valve and the inside of the valve body.  I recommend sanding all the “male” ends of the lead and bell pieces lightly, just enough to knock down the layer ridges, then add a layer of scotch tape or similar.  Then sand the corresponding “female” receptacles just to the point where each pair of pieces makes a nice, snug fit.  The tape is there to help create an airtight seal.

Take special care when sanding the mating surfaces between the main slide and its lead and third slide sections, since you'll want that piece to be able to move in and out easily.

It wouldn't hurt to oil the valves and main slide after sanding.

Supports: yes, in places -- some parts have a variant with inbuilt supports, but you may find your slicer will do better with its own auto-generated supports.

Total print time: a good solid couple of days.

Filaments used in my print:

• CC3D silky gold PLA
• Atomic light gray PETG
• Atomic bright white PLA

I did the “silver”/"chrome" parts in gray and then painted them with Rust-Oleum 2x-coverage metallic silver.

Update 2025-10-12: Redesigned the valves from scratch – they're basically identical to the originals, but made with non-destructive modeling and higher resolution surfaces.  Mainly this was to make the threads on top easier to tinker with (which I did, by extending them a bit) and to add a nice clean bevel to the bottoms.  Reworked the valve caps again to extend their bottoms, mine weren't allowing the valves to push all the way in (how did THAT happen?), and separated the white parts from the “brass” parts, just glue them in.  Redesigned the bell's bracket so that it friction fits onto what would be the third slide (the fatter part of the “lead to valves” piece) and snaps onto both the bell and the front end of the lead, making everything much more rigid.

• Redesigned the valves from scratch with non-destructive modeling and higher resolution surfaces, with threads on top and a clean bevel on bottom (otherwise identical to the originals).
• Valve caps now screw-on, with glue-in “ivory-ish” inserts.
• Added brackets to fasten the lead, bell, and third slide sections together to make the whole instrument nice and rigid.