Nozzle Cam Prusa I3Mk3S+ from cheap Earmicroscope -DISCONTINUED (made a new better model)

Update 29.05.2023. I do not use this design anymore because I made a superior model shortly ago. I recommend not using this model any longer and suggest you use my best nozzle cam (and still the most affordable solution). 
 

Problems with the discontinued model were:

- the extremely long body of the pen-like earscope caused annoying sideforces to the extruder 

- „fogging“ of the lens was really bad. Had to clean the lens almost before every print.

- the thickness of the aluminium pen-like case made the holder dangerously thick. I encountered some Y-axis-crashes during first layers in extreme left x-position.

I found the by far best solution by chance…. The story can be found on bottom of the page of my new model.

I do not delete the old model on this page here, because one may want to use the files for remixing or other purpose.

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This is the old Text and model. You better go to my new improved model!

As you may already know (if you have seen my other models) I am still looking for the best possible nozzle cam.

This time I build a holder to attach a magnifying USB nozzle cam from a cheap „ear cleaning microscope“. These cams cost about 17€ and are available on Amazon or eBay under different names. The image quality is quite good with a short focal point and the optical magnification is very useful for surveillance of the 3D printing process. 
 

Background: My last project, the 3DO cam despite superior image quality (when working) had the downside, that all cameras broke after a short time because of the long flat cable from the video chip to the PCB. Sooner or later all had issues with the flat cable and stopped working. After buying almost 10 of those relatively expensive 3DO cams - and all stopped working with the same flatcable issue - I gave up with this camera model. I stopped using it and started looking for a substitute. The commonly used „borescope minicameras“ did not satisfy me because of the poor  image quality. So I stumbled in those earscopes which are cheap but the imagequality and magnification are quite good. Downside here: they are really long. But I managed to build a holder in Shapr3D for those long cameras to use them with my Prusa I3MK3S+. 

Preparations:

1. I use this x-axis cable holder. My cam holder is made for that X-axis holder model:
   https://www.printables.com/de/model/139656-prusa-i3-mk3-x-axis-cable-holder-roomy-revo-editio 
2. Make the cable connection to the heatbed (flat cover) as flat as possible. Otherwise the camera will crash into the cover of that connection sometime. I used this one with soldered cables instead of the screws and sanded it down to be even more flat. 

Those two preparations are necessary for all of my nozzle cam holders, because the camera is almost on the same level as the nozzle. 

Assembly:

When printing it in PETG with 0,4 nozzle and 0,2 layer height, upright position with the back sitting on the print bed no supports are needed. See picture:

The cam holder can be clipped on the x-axis cable holder without using the screws. It is a tight fit. But on the long run the screws are recommended.  
There is a hole on each side that is intended for 3mm threaded inserts for fixing the camera itself (rotation stop). 

Those threads are for 8mm m3 screws to fix the cam in the holder and prevent it from rotating. You only need one side but you can use both sides to be safe.

You can adjust the focal point by pulling or pushing the cam out or into the mounting hole. After that, fix the position with at least one of the screws. Don’t overtighten  them or you may damage the cam. 
 

Hint for good image quality: After some hours of usage the image of all of my nozzle cams tends to turn blurry or foggy. This is because the lens is very close to the heated print bed. Something seems to condensate on the front glas. This can be cleaned easily with a cotton swab and isopropyl alcohol. I clean the lens prior to every print job and the image is clear like new again. 
 
Ad on: I added a little cable support to protect the cable outlet of the ear microscope. I recommend to let a bit more USB Cable from the cam run free, so that I can bend without giving force to the X-Axis Cable from the Extruder. Install the cam cable when the x-axis is on its most right position. I had one earscope that suffered from loose contact after a lot of printing hours because of to much mechanic stress on the USB cable outlet of the scope. 

Please show me your results and send me fotos of your makes. I like to see how you use this model. If you have ideas for improvement don’t hesitate to send them to me in the comments.   I will try to incorporate your suggestions and will modify the model for special needs if you ask me to do so. 
And of course a like ♥ or a rating ⭐ of the design are always welcome. 

happy printing, clamikra