Do you have a step or fusion 360 files for rail holders?
IGUS Y axis linear rail mod
Hey guys, for this mod for "Full Bear MK3s" you will need the following things: 2x IGUS TS-04-12 (linear rail) with a…
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updated September 16, 2019
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I had the expensive fun, unfortunately that was a mistake. Although you can adjust the game as much as you can, you still have too much room to move as you push into the corners. Buy better MGN12 rails, then it works.
And on the bed height you lose nothing, maybe 0.5 mm, but that's in the tolerance and the calibration works fine.
However, this allowed me to build on MGN rails in the Y-axis and currently use the TWE-04-12 in the Z-axis.
Unfortunately, I do not know if I can link here, to my desgin on thingiverse. (edited)
Is there an improvement in print quality with this mod?
i updated for the noise reduction and not for quality. the stock mk3s is already very consistent and good in Y. however, fast printing with the rails feels better (i do not have 1:1 comparisons as i run only one printer which is now transformed to bear and then bear with linear y) and i think now i see less ghosting in fast prints.
Do I lose print height with this mod?
I'm trying to get the linear rails from the company you listed and he asked if i really needed the carriage to be adjustable since the non adjustable carriages are plentiful while the manual are harder to get. So does it have to be manual? btw i'm assuming you did this mod after you had the bear mod yes? i ask because i just ordered the full bear mod and want to be sure they are compatible. Thank you for your time,effort and creativity.
Hey there, I am sure the non adjustable version of the carriages are working just fine as well. Yep, this printer was converted to a full bear.
Hi I have problems with the y calibration, it fails every time. The carriage are screw in the right position
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same here, the firmware can't find the first calibration point if assembled as pictured - seems to be looking for it in the wrong place.
Huh.
twe-04-12 is acc. to specs 38mm long and its 2 rows of screw holes are 15mm apart.
https://www.igus.com/contentData/Products/ProductPictures/p931z15318_1050x700.jpg
If you mount the twe-04 as instructed here your endstop/trigger distance (the edge of twe-04 that rams into the rod mount) will be ((38-15)/2)) mm away from the original U-bolt. So that's 11.5mm (right?)
The original LM8UU is 24mm long, and centered under the U-bolt, so its edge (and the endstop trigger) is half of the lm8uu's length (I think the carriage allows a mm or so play in positioning the bearing, so prusa calibration likely allows a bit of slack here)
So that's ~12mm vs 11.5mm - close enough to work without having a special rod holder.
Now, maybe if you were to screw in the twe-04 using its other set of holes... that would move the trigger distance 15mm closer to the back of the frame (15mm being the distance between holes rows), and then you'd need to compensate by cutting that off from the rod mount. But it's only practical to cut off 10mm and not more (anything more is meaningless because you'll be hitting the extrusion anyway). You'd still be 5mm from where the original endstop was with lm8uu, but maybe that's within calibration margins?
Anyway, I think there might be a mistake somewhere in the assembly instructions here (?)
You are correct - the picture showing which screw holes to use does contain an error. I have used the bottom set of screw holes on the upper left carriage.
How much slop do the carriages have on the rails? I had a sample pack from Igus with something similar, and the carriage rotated around its Z axis badly. (edited)
You can ajust the carrier. There a little screws on the site where you can tune it.
Where did you purchase the rails?
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Yes - the rails can be mounted onto the extrusions and the extrusions are mounted via those aluminium corner pieces to the bear frame. The extrusions are however not really needed in this use case.
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