Hi, great case man, I love it! Would you have by any chance the .step file for the 6col-plate-A please? Only the B is currently available. Thanks :)
Corne keyboard case - 5 and 6 columns
Corne case compatible with v2 and v3 hotswap PCBs and fr4 top plates, for builds with 5 or 6 columns.
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updated March 30, 2025
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@Natex_2428161 just uploaded the files
@void Thank you very very much :D
@void Thanks a lot for the STEP fiiles! Can you please the the plate_5col_A variant as well?
Hey, I ordered my Corne kit form 42.Keeb, and while waiting for it to arrive I want to print this and order the rest of the parts. So my question is : except for the tenting screws, do I need other screws or are they included in the kit from 42.Keeb ?
@Grininventor_252160 yes, 42keebs kits should include the screws and standoffs required for assembly. you should be good without having to order any other hardware.
HELP- Hi, firstly LOVE THIS DESIGN! Pls bear with me I'm atoal noob at 3d printing + Cormne keyboards. 2 quick questions.
1) gonna print the case using Bambu A1, with PLS+, will that be ok?
2) I'm in Mexico, can u recommend a 1 stop mail order shop to buy all the other internals etc (excluding the screws) so that the keyboard ends up looking like the 6th photo (with the white speaker looking thingie) in the background? (most american online shops + chains ship to Mx , no issues)
PS also prefer silent keys. (edited)
Please make this case for sofle rgb! Pleeease!
Hi first: Thank you for making me fall in love for corne
second: im so new to this and just got my PCB and i wanna print this is there any version with no holes on the bottom i SEARCHED EVERY WHERE BTW i don't know 3d and this is my first print although a third party business is printing it for me my last straw is to put a wooden plate under it because i care about the sound (edited)
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@Emmetvakilza_2614407 nothing in particular. most of my models are optimized for .4mm nozzles, but other than that the only thing that comes to mind would be the usb/trs ports: you might want to add supports in those areas depending on your filament of choice and if your printer is not that good with overhangs and part cooling.
@void i dont know what overhang is but no i dont think i would change it and yes my printer is not that good (edited)
Hey, thanks for the models, those are great and I've tried them all.
The only thing that I'm struggling with is with the plate to hold the switches, those are SO tight, that I can take the switches off without taking off the whole plate from the case. I recently broke one socket pad from the pcb trying to fit one switch all because of the plate being so tight.
In the past I have used an acrylic plate and the case works so wonderful.
Any advice for the plate issue? I'm using a CR-10 with maximum stock settings and I'm not an advanced user in 3d printing yet..
@JavierEgel_2365659 I appreciate the kind words, Javier, thank you.
you might have to dial in your printers settings, dimensional accuracy seems to be off.
usually switch plates are sized at 14x14 mm, however for the plates included with this model the sizing is even larger, at 14.15mm, which in theory should lead to an even looser fit.
an easy thing to check for is if the switches are easier to insert in the plate from one side, or the other. if so, it might be just elephant foot and you could compensate for that in your slicer.
Great model, printed perfectly, definitely recommended.
I noticed the left side screw holes in this model required around 1mm of widening to fit perfectly with the switch plate I'm using, which is from a keyboard kit, not the printed one in this file. (edited)
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@void I'm talking about the bottom of the case, now that you mention it, I'm using the switch plate from a kit (which in theory should be identical in dimensions). On the left half, the screw holes were just about 1mm offset towards the pinky, just far enough that I had to widen them a little to get the holes to align perfectly.
Since nobody else has noted this issue, and the right side case fit perfectly, it might be a small misalignment in the switch plate I'm using, not your model. I edited my original comment to be more accurate.
@AverageCanad_2361414 thank you, appreciate the detailed description.
reason why I asked, and why I find it a bit peculiar, is that all work is done on the right half (on all versions of the case), and then the bodies are simply mirrored.
I will take a closer look at the files though just to make sure.
thanks again! (edited)
Any chance you can upload the step files for 5 col files? I am planning to do a hardwire build and wanted to make some adjustments.
@BenZhou_2065596 just uploaded the step files
Would a Corne v4 fit as well as the v3?
@void Great design, love it. I'm planning on using it for the wireless Aurora Corne I'm building.
Do you think the 6col_eiga_1.5d_600mah could fit a battery that is 4.5-5mm in height?
I have downloaded the file to modify the side holes for the reset button, as it is slightly offset towards the controller on this PCB. I will upload a remix once I'm done
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@void Finished my build. It looks and fits great.
I printed the 6col_eiga_1.5d_600mah model. I had to slightly modify it to fit the Aurora Corne plate properly (some of the bottom LEDs were hitting the edge where the PCB sits and the reset button cutout needed to be moved slightly). I will upload a remix when I can.
I actually managed to fit a 800mAh LP503448 battery in (close call with the added double-sided tape) and it's not in danger of being punctured. Really happy about this.
Though there is one thing that slightly bothers me - the tenting.
I got the bolts and other parts for tenting that you had listed, and when I insert them, the whole case seems to move on the axes of the bolts as the locknuts are not fixed into place. Do I need to glue them into the hole?
Thank you
@Precigus_1515657 sweet, looking forward to the remix!
regarding the lock nuts: I never used the tented version myself, but I did print a half at some point in time, and I remember the m5 nuts being snug in the case, with no play.
I don't see any reason why glue wouldn't work, just as long as it doesn't ruin the threads.
