Printability Remix of Arduino Tricorder

I printed these parts a few dozen times and made changes along the way to make the parts print right / prettier / consistent / match my assembly preferences.

No stl files here, print using the 3mf file.  All the mods were done using PrusaSlicer tools.  New hinges were made in OpenSCAD.

Wiring and Software is on github: https://github.com/thatdecade/ArduinoTricorder

Remix changes:

• Split the control panel into two parts to solve a hard to print steep overhang.
• To print the faces flush to the bed, I removed the hinges and print separately.
• **Swapped M2.5 hex standoffs and screws for M2.5 hot threaded inserts. I prefer hot melt inserts over friction/glued nuts.
• Door only needs one screw to assemble. The two screw design was overlapping the EMRG light housing.
• PCB buttons are 0.6mm longer so they are easier to press on the face.
• Each color of parts is in it's own 3mf file for easy sorting.

**M2.5 screws fit perfectly into the screw holes on the Adafruit Feather nRF52840 Sense.  M3 also works, but you'll have to drill the PCB holes wider.

New Parts:

See the Lambtor's build for the full parts list.  These screws and threaded inserts replace the hex standoffs.

• M2.5 threaded inserts
• M2.5 Plastic Screw Set or Metal Screw Set

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Printing Notes:

Print each part individually as oriented in the 3mf files (100% infill, PLA) in the matching color.

• You can attempt to print the whole tray from my gcode, but I wouldn't recommend it. The parts are much prettier when printed one at a time.
• Infill 100% is important.  Some of these parts snap together and really need the added strength.
• Filaments used:
  • Jessie Premium PETG Clear
  • Jessie Premium PLA Overcast Gray Glitter
  • Jessie Premium PLA Soul Black Glitter
  • Jessie Premium PLA Red Ice Translucent
  • Jessie Premium PLA Golden Winner Glitter
• Personally, I find that Jessie PLA prints nicely to my Prusa's bed at 75C for the first layer, holds best at 60C for the remaining layers.  Feel free to swap the filament profile for what works best for you.

Assembly Notes:

1. Attach the body-face-top and body-face-bottom parts with super glue (dot dot, not a lot).  Clamp for a few hours before continuing.
2. Install the hot threaded inserts.
    
3. Pre-install two screws into body-face-bottom, then slide into the body-shell and tighten the screws.
4. Pop the door-face into the door-shell and screw in place.
    
5. Next step is popping the hinges together.  This is tricky, see photo for tips.  I had best luck by:
   1. Insert the four body hinges and two door hinges. 
   2. Remove one of the outer body hinges
   3. Twist one side's hinges in.  
   4. Spread the body and door apart and use the gap to reinstall the last body hinge.
      
      Hinge Tips:
      * The hinges are friction tight and insert HARD.
      * If you think you need to, use a knife to remove material to adjust the fit.
      * If you accidently removed too much material and the hinges feel loose to the body or door assemblies, take everything apart and add a drop of super glue to the inside.
       
6. Done.  Now you can take apart and reassemble the tricorder as you wish to install the electronics and other 3d printed parts :)