UPDATE 6/19/24:
Bowden tube now only inserts to the depth of the PC4 - then stops and can't slide in too far.
Curvature of the channel was lessened - no more binding.
Filament aligns with the bowden tube and slides in easily without getting hung up.
PC4 threads into the block a little deeper to allow for more print height.
Reoriented model to sit on build plate correctly so you don't have to.
Update 5/22/24:
I've added my remix of the printhead mount for the PTFE connector - just finger tighten and snug with wrench.
This is a remix. Thanks to @HalfManBear for creating the original. He has some other great Neptune designs so go check him out. Also thanks to @Dash for simplifying the printhead mount - I love simple solutions!
I plan to build a printer enclosure at some point and this mount seemed like the logical choice. I've also been working on a reverse Bowden upgrade and tested out some other models but none of them were quite what I wanted so here we are.
The original description by HalfManBear lists some parts you'll need:
Uses original M4 Hex screws for initial mounting.
Requires 2x M4 Nuts & 2x M4x25mm bolts
I'm using the N4 Plus and this is working perfectly. For the full upgrade bennies you'll also need a couple of PC4-M10 connectors and some Bowden tubing. I got my tubing and connectors as a kit from Amazon. (Affiliate link)
Using the included printhead mount you can affix one connector to the stock printhead - also works with a custom shroud. No hardware needed for this - on top of your printhead there's a small collar where the filament enters - just apply a very small amount of super glue around the outside of this collar and press fit the mount on. Once the glue dries thread on the PC4.
I found that the connectors thread in perfectly (just finger tighten to start threads). Your mileage may vary depending on your printer settings. I gently snugged them up with a wrench. I purchased the two M4 nuts and M4x25mm bolts for the spool mount at my local hardware. It's a little tricky to get the threads started on these but once you do everything fits together nicely and holds solid. A small length of PTFE can also be inserted to the top of the mounting block if you like.
You can see from the pictures that I also modified the filament runout sensor. This isn't a requirement - just how I did it. The brass inserts that come with the sensor wear out quickly from friction. Check yours and you'll see a groove worn into the brass. I used a drill bit that was slightly smaller than the brass inserts and slowly drilled into them. This heats the brass up until it pops out of the sensor housing. I then cleaned up the holes with a slightly larger bit but if you attempt this mod be careful not to drill any deeper than the existing hole. Next I inserted a couple pieces of vinyl air hose into the holes where the brass fittings were (cheap aquarium bubbler hose). The hose pieces fit snug and a little super glue ensures they stay put. As a bonus the PTFE Bowden tubing fits perfectly into the air hose.
Filament:
I recommend PETG, ASA, or ABS. This is a pretty solid model and gets bolted down so you could probably get away with PLA but it might deform - especially in an enclosure.
My Print Settings:
I am currently using OrcaSlicer 2.0, PETG filament, and a 4mm nozzle.
Orient the spool mount so the top sits on the build plate to eliminate need for support.
Layer height: 0.2
Line width 0.5
Arc fitting: check
Elephant foot: 0
3 walls
10% infill - 3D Honeycomb
Infill/wall overlap 33%
SPEED:
First layer: 30mm/s
First layer infill: 60mm/s
glue stick
I have a few remixes and some of my own models (not yet released). Some of my mods have greatly improved the print quality on this printer (Neptune 4 Plus). You might catch a glimpse of a couple in the photos. This remix is my first post to Printables and I will be sharing more soon so please follow and stay tuned :) I try to design models that are easy to print and assemble, improve print quality/functionality, and avoid the need for extra hardware if possible. If I test a model and it's not working properly I'm not going to share it. Feel free to send me a message with questions or leave a comment. These are the spool holders I'm using and they're freeking perfect IMO.
The author remixed this model.
I've added a centralized passthrough hole for a Bowden tube and threads to accept a PC4-M10 connector.