Heewing T2 Cruza Nose replacement for Walksnail VTX

Replacement nose for the Heewing T2 Cruza. I wanted more air for my VTX and this is what I came up with. It's a little heavier than the foam nose of course. 

Depending on how you plan to set it up the minimum hardware you'll need are 

4 - M2X3.5X3 Heat inserts 

2 - M3X4.6X5 heat inserts. 

4- M2X15 screws for the VTX

2 - M2X4 self tapping screws for the Walksnail USB board. 

For the side clips you'll need 2 - M3X8 screws. You'll also have to drill a hole in the plywood as the hole is moved up from the original location.

If you want it setup like I have mine then you'll need a few extra things. 

Stainless steel capillary tube for the Pitot bulkhead QD 

Cut 2 pieces down to 21mm to 23mm each

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BX494B3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

2mm Caps - to keep dust out of the tubes if you take the nose off

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Thread-Protectors-Rubber-Flexible/dp/B07T8Q2RLF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1Y0E2NTFG2SM9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.eQ1zIMUOUErLLFz5FCcKjVN5emV-o-yiD0HplgDLbaykp_i7jWlUl1LltgThWMwh7RQBOgPWQ1Sv25uvUpNpS8wve8-ZLiFjOHgh31RmpMQ75StB6-A8r8eYk-VEaRPDkvwIuaRXE65WoPVKsq8Xm1CRro7ab__r-n8dLNchgkguz5rBy3WbRS3ZPiejQiIc8eUKNwCgReWpX_oPRUJQ2pKa9Ubq4qfLARmp5iIC0A4.4OlNNXEs3MnwJXJOouBHT8eBJEIAQ-03-Gi8XctI2w4&dib_tag=se&keywords=2mm%2Bcaps&qid=1716319031&sprefix=2mm%2Bcaps%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-3&th=1

 JST-SH Breakout board for VTX 

https://www.pololu.com/product/4773

6 pin JST-SH female to female cable

https://www.pololu.com/product/4767

For the FC Tray I'm using a SpeedyBee F405 wing V1.  Two Matek Micro BECs. the 6-60v versions. One for the lights and the other for the VTX. 

The airspeed sensor is a 4525D Digital sensor. The pitot tube pictured is the only one that will work with the STL file uploaded. I did include STEP files if anyone wants to change it for another tube. 

For printing I used Eryone PP-CF. It's really tough and from my understanding PP (Polypropylene) is one if the lightest filaments out there.  But you can use whatever you want. ASA or ABS would be a good choice. 

There are a lot of supports needed to print the nose and keep it looking nice. I attached a pic of the support areas I used. 

I also used organic supports. They seem easier to remove with organic supports. 

From the pics you can see how things are routed and where the heat inserts need to go. 

Lastly the main fuse is not dimensionally accurate. If you're going to model anything from it I would start over and make your own. I just eyeballed it to get it close enough to see how it would look with the nose when I was modeling it. So don't use it for anything important.