{"data":{"model":{"id":"848796","slug":"raspberry-pi-5-case-retro-tower-desktop","name":"Raspberry Pi 5 case - Retro tower desktop","authorship":"remix","club":false,"excludeCommercialUsage":false,"price":null,"eduProject":null,"ratingAvg":"0E-10","myRating":null,"ratingCount":0,"description":"

A retro style beige Raspberry Pi 5 tower case. It has a working power button, LED, and IO activity LED. The SD/microSD card can be inserted like a floppy disk to swap between different operating systems. It also has 2 HDMI ports, audio jack, and USB-C power on the rear of the case.

There is space for a 40mm exhaust fan and a 40mm or 50mm front intake fan. There is also enough space for a large cooler like the ICE tower.

Parts needed (links at the end):

Micro SD to SD Card extender: 1

Micro HDMI to HDMI Adapter Cable: 2

Panel-Mount USB-C Extention Cable: 1

40mm 5V fan (for exhaust): 1

Low-Profile CPU Cooler or ICE Tower Cooler: 1

SPST Momentary Mini Push Button: 1

5mm LED with resistor: 1

3mm LED with resistor: 1

#6-32 UNC thumbscrew (standard PC case screw): 2

#6-32 UNC screw or M3 screw (standard PC case screw): 6

various wire/header connectors (for connecting fans/LEDs/power button)

Optional:

Front 5V 40mm/50mm fan: 1 (note: I've not needed this even when overclocking the Raspberry Pi)

Noctua NF-A4x10 to replace CPU Cooler fan: 1

Assembly instructions

Prepare all parts

note: any places that require screwing plastic parts together can be replaced with glue if you are way too confident/lazy.

Print out all parts with whatever material/color you would like.
(optional but helpful) Use a thread tap on all screw holes

Start Assembly

Add header pins to jumper J2 (right between USB-C connector and HDMI-0). These are for the power button.
Tap threads for all screws. You may be able to tap threads by forcing the screws into the holes.
Tap threads for push button. If you don't have a tap, you can use the push button to create the threads. You may need to use a file to help make sure the push button fits if you don't have a tap.
Press fit 3mm LED into the main case. Glue can be added, but the press fit should hold it fine.
Press fit 5mm LED into the main case. Glue can be added, but shouldn't be needed.
Put SD card extender in the SD card tray and attach to the case with screws or glue. This may require a long screw driver that can reach through the fan grill or a very short one that will fit in the case. This is easer to do before anything else is in the way.
(Optional) Attach front fan with screws
Screw/Glue in front panel. Make sure LEDs are visible and the push button does not get stuck.
Put HDMI adaptors in the HDMI holder, but don't mount it in the case.

Connect wires to the GPIO Header

(Optional) Make a simple splitter for the CPU/Case fan(s).
The push button goes across pin5/pin6 (polarity doesn't matter).
The power LED goes to pin8(+) and pin14(-).
The GPIO LED goes to pin37(+) and pin39(-).
Connect all wires, connectors, and micro SD card extender to the raspberry pi before carefully placing it in the case. At this point all cables/extenders should be connected to the Raspberry pi, but not the case. (note: if using the ICE or low profile heatsinks, they should not be attached at this point)

Finish Assembly

Use the brass spacers/mounts/standoffs from the cooler to screw the Raspberry PI to the case. These 4 brass pieces should now be going through the Raspberry Pi's mount points into the case.
Add thermal paste or the thermal pad to the processor and attach the CPU cooler with the included screws with spacers or shorter screws (I used screws from an old laptop).
Screw in the HDMI Holder. There may be a sharp bend in the cable depending on tolerances of the heatsink and fan location.
Screw in the USB-C extender. I trimmed some material off the plastic housing for easier fitment.
Attach the rear exhaust fan.
Slide the side panel on and add thumb screws

config.txt setting

Enable GPIO LED and IO activity LED

Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README

dtoverlay=act-led,gpio=19

dtoverlay=gpio-poweroff,gpiopin=14,active_low

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YHN83NJ\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K21HSQX\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R7QBQD\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXS86G7\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTH11YX1 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V35SXMC\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LDGHHS/ or any similar button\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4WXFX1/ or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4XC341\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X622RJN or (preferably) make your own.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R9KN46J (these fans work well, but are a bit loud even at 3.3V)

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

BIBO

Printer:

Bibo 2 dual

Rafts:

Supports:

Doesn't Matter

Filament:\nLEE FUNG ABS

Wood

Notes:

Any material should work. ABS is softer, so it is easier to tap threads.

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Modified I/O to match the Raspberry PI 5.

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