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This is a free-standing HEPPA vent to attach to the end of a 4\" (101mm I.D.) vent hose for 3D printer & laser engraver enclosures. There is plenty of extra room in the filter compartment for activated charcoal/carbon filter sheets.

This project also has an electronics box to hold a DC 12V motor speed controller.

This is my second re-mix for making a filter for a LaserPro enclosure- first version had too much blow back from the fan due to bottle necking and weighed a lot for the thin acrylic sheets used in my enclosure. If you use a lower CFM fan, that version could work a lot better. This version seems to work quite well with a 120mm/200CFM fan running at 50-100% power with minimal blowback.

For this project, you will need the following:

Printed Parts

1x Filter.stl
1x Filter Cover.stl
1x Box.stl
1x Lid.stl\u00a0
Optional: 1x 120mm to 4\"/101mm I.D. Duct Adapter\u00a0
Optional: Hose Support.stl- Supports the hose before the filter to keep it stabilized

Parts to Purchase

1x Tupavco TP1509 120mm 200CFM 12VDC/3.4A Fan (4 Wire)
1 Pack of Pigtail JST connectors (2 male, 2 female)
1x 12V DC 4A AC/DC Adapter
Any generic 86880 HEPPA filter, I like this multipack\u00a0
Optional: 1x 12V DC Motor Speed Controller 1203BB

Misc. Parts

1x 4\", 101mm Internal Diameter Vent Hose. (\u2264 8')
8x ~2.5mm self-tapping wood screws, shorter than 3/4\" (such as drywall screws)
Super Glue
2x 5\" or larger pipe clamps
4x M4 screws- long enough to secure the fan to the adapter bracket through your enclosure
4x M4 Nuts
4x M3x10-12mm nuts
4x M3 Nuts
Heat-shrink tubes (18 AWG) or small wire nuts (optional- only if you are using JSTs for all your connections\u00a0

Assembly

Print each of the parts from above. PLA or PLA+/Pro works just fine. I chose 3 perimeters and 10% infill.You only need minor supports on the filter body.
Complete the electronics wiring (below), and secure everything into the box. You may need to use a knife to open the DC & speed knob ports a bit depending on your printer's tolerances.
Use the 4x M4 short nuts to secure the lid to the electronics enclosure. I had to use an Allen key to open up the holes on the lid just a tad.
After determining the blow direction of the fan, \"sandwich\" it with 4xM4 screws & nuts to the 120mm fan to 4\" adapter, with your enclosure wall in between the two. You will want this to be as tight as possible, as the fan will vibrate otherwise.
Slide your 5\" pipe clamps onto each end of your 4\" exhaust tube. Then, connect the tube between your enclosure vent from above, and to the filter box inlet. Make sure the tube goes all the way up to the flare. Tighten each pipe clamp.
Insert your HEPPA filter & other media into the filter box- on a standard 86880 filter, the self-sealing gasket should be facing IN.
Using the self-tapping screws, attach the filter cover. It may prove helpful to heat the screws before tapping them. (Or if you're fancy, you can tap threads out and use machine screws).\u00a0

Electronics Assembly & Wiring

Important information if you are using the above DC Motor Controller and a brushless fan: Brushless fans (which most \u201cPC Case\u201d fans are), can NOT be reversed, and the polarity matters. Pay close attention to ensuring you are not crossing the Pos+ and GND-. For this exact setup with the parts above, the DC motor controller has a \u201creverser\u201d switch that swaps the polarity of the motor output. Do not use this- this particular fan seems unharmed by swapping the polarity, but it doesn\u2019t run in reverse. You can opt to just not use the switch and seal it into the box, but it does need to be connected to the board. The speed knob \u201cclicks\u201d on and off in its place.\u00a0
For LaserPro users: Do NOT connect this fan directly to the fan port on the LaserPro control board. This is a 12V 3.5 Amp fan. I was unable to locate the max amperage the board can handle, but I highly doubt it is 3.5A for just one fan. If you want to have the exhaust turn on and off with the LaserPro, use a 12V power relay on the extra fan port with a small 2-pin cooling fan, or the \"Active Exhaust\" fan, then wire the N.O. contacts between the GND- from the DC power supply and the GND- on the speed controller input.
This is low voltage, but you should always take the proper precautions. Never work on energized equipment. Always check your polarity, and make sure you familiarize yourself with the correct connections on the hardware itself- don't rely on photos from the internet or Amazon.

Connect a male JST/MOLEX pigtail to the motor outputs on the 1203BB (Polarity matters for brushless motors!) . Ideally, black to GND-, red to Pos+. Check for a pinout online for a 3 or 4 pin PWM fan- don\u2019t rely on the wire colours. (This link is considered the standard pinout for all PWM 3 or 4 pin fans. Typically Red/Yellow(+) and Black(GND-).
Connect another male JST/MOLEX pigtail to the 12VDC input. (ENSURE POLARITY IS CORRECT!) (Optional, you can also just direct wire this- I bought a massive multipack of these so making it easy)
Connect a female JST connector to the wire-out ports on the 12VDC 4A Adapter. Make sure the wire colors match up to the male JST you just wired to the 12VDC input on the 1203BB. Remember... Direct Current is polarized, and most control boards are not forgiving of crossing the + and GND(-).
On your 120mm fan of choice, locate the 12VDC + and GND (Should be pins 1 & 2 (Black/Red)
- 4A. Splice these off and connect these to a female JST pigtail using heat shrink tubes.
- 4B. Connect the female JST from the fan to the male JST from the motor output.
Connect the male JST from the 1203BB 12VDC input to the female JST from the 12VDC 4A adapter.
Using 4x M3 screws + bolts, secure the 1203BB board to the electronics case. You will need to remove the knob for the speed control first.\u00a0

Sources

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

i3 MK3 MMU 2

Rafts:

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.20mm

Infill:

10% Adaptive Cubic

Filament: eSun PLA+ Yellow
Notes:

3 perimeters for screw holes
4 perimeters for duct hose attachments
Supports are only needed on the filter body, right on the indie with where it reduces from 120mm to the filter cavity. You may need some supports on the exterior, depending on your slicing settings and printer's abilities.
I printed this at 120% speed without any issues on a Prusa MK3 MMU2S

Category: 3D Printer Accessories

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120mm fan / 4" Vent Hose to HEPPA 86880/40320

Model files

Filter Cover.stl

Filter Cover.stl

Filter.stl

Filter.stl

Hose Stand.stl

Hose Stand.stl

Box.stl

Box.stl

Lid.stl

Lid.stl

Model origin

License