Gscartsw Faceplate and Fasteners

There are two plate models, one for heat-set inserts and one with standard hex nuts.

• Heat sets designed for M4 threads
  • There is a small lip so you can snap the insert in place then melt it.
• Hex nuts model designed for M4 nuts ("standard" from lowes, ~3.1mm thick, ~7.9mm edge to edge)
  • You can probably get by with just setting the nut in the cavity, but I'd recommend adding a small amount of glue to tack it in place.

Both models are only 256mm long, so it will be a hair shorter than the original. My current printer has a base of 256x256, so there wasn't any point in designing larger. (shown in one of the photos)

There are also two fastener models. Both designs have through holes to use M4 bolts and side holes for zip ties. There is a gap on one side to slip the cable through and the sides help prevent wiggle.

• Small
  • One for a “standard” scart cable
• Large
  • This is for the larger, less angular kabeldirekt scart cables.

The faceplate uses the same bolt size and spacing as Kytor's scart-locks, but because the sockets are so close on the switch, you won't be able to use them except for on one end. I don't have one to test, but since I used the same hole placement for the faceplate, I would imagine the fasteners should work on the retrotink4k.

I designed and test printed this on the Bambu lab X1, using the 4mm nozzle. I'm not sure what the standard settings are compared to other printers, but I would imagine as long as a 4mm nozzle is used, the parts should come out reasonably well.