ESP-Lamp (LED Xiaomi Inspired Lamp)

Inspired by Xiaomi lamps, I this version using Fusion 360. This project served as both a practice exercise for learning Fusion 360 and a test for my P1S Bambu Printer. (I also wanted a non cloud version of the lamp)

The lamp model has precise tolerances, so I’ve included 8 Calibration files to ensure your printer can handle the tight fits. The photo of my model shows a variant with wireless charging, using components from an old BTL012 3in1 Wireless charger I had spare. If you’d like to replicate this, the fusion 360 design file is available for customization.

In the standard version, the lamp operates by powering the LEDs and ESP Module through a 5V USB-C input which can be controlled through a rotary encoder. You can find detailed instructions in the wiring diagram. Additionally, the standard design offers ample space for integrating a wireless charger directly or adding weights to enhance stability

ESPHome Code available on my Github

Parts Needed

• Rotary Encoder with Click
• ESP32 Module (I used ESP32-C3-Supermini)
• M2, M3 & M4 Screws, Washers & Nuts
• WS2811/WS2812/WS2812B or WS2813 (1 Meter 5V) LED Strip
• USB-C Female Ports
• 10mm rubber feet (Or print in TPU)
• Spare 1m cable with at least 3 Internal wires (I used an old USB cable)
• Other spare wires for general wiring of components
• USB-C to USB-A Cable
• USB-A power brick (at least 1.5A)
• 20mm Metal Washer (Can be printed but not recommended)

Print Settings

The tallest components of this build have been specifically designed for a printer with a maximum build height of 256mm. These parts have been divided into smaller sections, allowing you to print them separately and then reassemble them using glue.

• If your printer does not support a maximum build height of 256mm, you’ll need print at an angle and use additional supports during printing. Alternatively, you can further divide the model into smaller pieces using the included Fusion360 files.
• If your printer can handle a height of up to 400mm, you can combine the parts directly in your slicer software. No need to glue together any of the taller components.

Base: Print flat with supports. 0.20 layer height, 20% infill, and 2 walls. 
Base Cover: Print flat with supports. 0.20 layer height, 20% infill, and 2 walls. 
Brightness Knob: No supports required. 0.20 layer height, 20% infill, and 2 walls. 
Rotate Stop: No supports. Opt for 0.16 layer height, 100% infill, and 2 walls. 
Hinge & LED Bar: Print upright with supports. 0.20 layer height, infill to 20%, and walls to 3.
Upper Neck & Lower Neck: Print upright, ensuring the skinny parts are at the top. 0.20 layer height, 20% infill, and 3 walls. 
Washer: If possible print with a strong filament, PLA will be fragile but I haven't tested it. Set layer height to 0.20, infill to 100% 
Feet: Print in whatever material you like but TPU is recommended. 
Diffuser: (Print however you like in whatever colour or filament you like (I used 100% infill white PLA)

Assembly

Please refer to the included diagram

1. Print the calibration parts and confirm that all parts fit together without force, this should ensure that you don't need to dry fit your full parts once printed as long as they print okay but I'd still recommend that you do a dry fit.
2. Print all components for the lamp in the filament of your choice, I chose Overture stone PLA filament as it hides the layer lines nicely without any post processing and I printed the light diffuser in standard white PLA.
3. Cut your LED strip to size and wire one end of your wire to it and insert it into the LED Bar. Insert Diffuser and then the hinge passing the wire through the hinge. Glue the LED Bar to the Hinge.
4. Pass the rest of the wire through the upper neck and the lower neck so the two pieces come together, leave a loop of slack where the hinge is. Glue the Upper and lower neck together.
5. Take your 20mm washer and drill a hole next to the factory centre hole, the hole will need to be around 5mm from the centre of the washers factory hole to line up and be big enough to pass your cable through. (For me it was around 4mm)If you do not want to drill, a printable washer is included but it's not recommended unless you can print in a strong filament. 
6. Once all the glue has dried, pass the lower neck base mount and wire through the lamp base. Pass the washer over the wire and secure everything with an M4 Screw 
7. Screw on the rotate stop bracket with M2 screws 
8. Attach the Rotary encoder and secure with it's included washer and bolt. Wire up the rest of the components according to the wiring diagram 
9. Screw on the base and stick on the rubber feet.