MELD a Filament Joiner by Recreator3D

• MELD: A Filament Joiner                                          September, 2022

After working with Mosaic’s Palette 2 Pro, I wanted to find a cheaper off the shelf method for filament joining that didn’t cost $500. 

Sticking to Recreator3D’s mission; I started work on, MELD: A Filament Joiner. Using some random parts I had around to test the idea. The basic goal, use off the shelf items that we’re familiar with. 

Start with manual methods.  Simple and easy.  Using basic gCode commands for control. 

Keeping the method able to be started by all and initial cost efforts affordable with expandability in mind for more automated minded consumers in the future.

My efforts produced a join. Sadly, it was brittle and creeping into a crystallized state. 

It broke shortly after. I shared my efforts within Recreator3D’s user groups. I attempted my methods a couple more times with similar results. 

With preparation for ERRF2022, my focus has slipped elsewhere. I hope to see any efforts from the Recreator3D community in the future. 

MELD: A Filament Joiner - UPDATE                             January, 2024

Recreator3D had a busy year in 2023. Prepping for RepRaps, Make Fairs and varying other directions along our mission. We’re humbled by Recreator3D.com member Sylvain Debeux, who reached out in December about working with our concept of MELD that we shared back in September, 2022. 
 

Using the Recreator3D MK6 Fun Size, Sylvain created a MELD Top Hat for it’s base. 

At Recreator3D, we’re super pleased with this design and have brought Sylvain Debeux on as a Recreator3D Ambassador to help promote and troubleshoot MELD: A Filament Joiner.

Thanks Sylvain Debeux for your efforts in this journey. 

Sylvain Debeux: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008169555318

MELD is based around The Recreator3D MK6 Fun Size Build. It uses it’s base as a build platform. LCD, Control Board, PSU, Power Switch, 2 - 2020’s, and the printed parts along small parts suggested within those notes. 

You can find the MK6 build here:

https://www.printables.com/model/352729-pet1-plastic-bottle-filament-maker-with-the-recrea
 

Be mindful this can be applied for either 12 volt or 24 volt, 

but for our example using the MK6 as a base, we’re using 12 Volt. 

Apply proper voltage along all your needed parts otherwise. 

• (1x) - 12 Volt Hotend Assembly

CR-10S500-12V 40W 

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This contains one set of needed items:

 - (1x) heater block 

 - (1x) heatsink

 - (1x) throat 

 - (1x) heater cartridge

 - (1x) thermistor sensor 

• (1x) - Ender 3 Hotend Extruder

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This contains secondary needed items: 

- (1x) heatsink

- (1x) throat
 

• (1x) - Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing 1.75MM Filament

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We’re suggesting Capricorn as it’s known for higher temps resistance (260C) as well tighter tolerances of the inner diameter. 
 

• (1x) - 5015 blower fan

5015 12V DC 

Brushless Cooling Blower Fan

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This fan is used on top of the unit and cools the heatblock directly, it is attached to the Parts Cooling Fan and is controllable. 

• (2x) - 4010 Fans 

WINSINN 40mm Fan 12V

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These two fans will be used to cool the two heat sinks, one on each side. They are connected together in a Y and connect to the Hot End Fan to always be running. 

• (2x) - Extruder Back Support Plates

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Mounts to the Printed Support to connect everything together for support.

Before Joining: 

Make sure that your filament is easily able to pass through a standard all metal throat. 

This will enable you to not hit any bottlenecks within your production flow.
 

For PET1 Joining: 

• Watch the Video Provided “MELD - gCode Joiner Example.mp4”

https://drive.google.com/file/d/14jmwdMrB9OHOpmU6fQV9Bz05tplliOG_/view?usp=sharing

• Run the gCode provided via SD Card

https://drive.google.com/file/d/176MNE4weKA6iO4O06Ahg_HXY9YqiS7tq/view?usp=sharing

It will run the commands and prompt hand technique commands via sound beeps:
 

• Temps to 260C degrees 

- For 10/15 seconds apply moderate pressure 

(one feels the plastic that fuses and the centering marks approach)

• Heating cut off and gently lower to 230C 
• then Cooling fan at the bottom up to 70/80 degrees 
• welding can then be released - Push forward from the back; rather than pulling forward, to avoid breaking.