Cable Chain for Neptune3 Pro - REMIX to correct Z-Mount and Cable Chain Base Mount

The STLs have been sent to Cura and then exported. 

I exported them as STL binaries, but also as 3MF files, use whichever you wish. The 3MF for the Chain Base Mount includes my setting overrides, which just turns off buildplate adhesion and turns on the right amount of support. All files should turn up in slicer in the correct orientation for printing as they were exported in that orientation. 

The Z-Mount didn't quite fit my Neptune3 Pro so I took the bit that fits the Z gantry from the original Elegoo tool holder STL supplied with the printer and mirrored it for the left Z gantry. Even this wasn't quite right because it still catches on the Z-axis thread guide! So I tweaked it further by relieving that area. When I printed my version out, it fitted perfectly without adjustment so here it is :o)

The Cable Chain Base Mount was too tight on my frame slots and really didn't need all 4 hooks, so I chopped the inner two off and it's much easier to click in place now but still plenty firm enough to hold well and considerably easier to remove when desired. Also I found there was a very weak spot where the main body of the mount joins the rest that wraps around the cable, see image. At first I repaired this with epoxy and a strip of metal, but then decided to redesign the part by adding a strengthener in the right spot - you still need to be careful not to stress this area too much when inserting the cable but it's less likely to snap on you now!

Note that to get a “clean” fold of the cable under the Z-Mount Clip, you have to have an origami dirty fold in the Cable Chain Base Mount, I think the only way to avoid that and make all folds simple and clean would be to mirror the Extruder Mount but that's a project for another remixer! I've got mine all fitted now so I'm not going to bother remixing that and refitting the whole chain. Ought to be quite easy to do in CAD though, import the STL, mirror the body (so the cable twists the other way (i.e. anticlockwise as it goes rearward instead of clockwise, effectively 180deg away from original design) and print it!