Quake Nailgun Ammo Lunchbox!

Possibly the coolest lunchbox for a 1990s game nerd, or for an unfortunate child of a 1990s game nerd.
19
40
2
569
updated October 13, 2024

Description

PDF

Its a Quake Nailgun Ammo box and a lunchbox combined!

Based on the Old Quake model and the revised updated model fans made many years later, this is a 260mm square box with a rotatable lock top, with space for a little lunch pack inside - It's also a bit of a workout carrying it around :D

BOM:

  • 4x m3 hex nuts (used on the bottom of the lock)
  • 4x m3 18mm bolt (used in the lid to lock connection)
  • 2x m5 30mm hex socket bolts (used on the lid to body connection)
  • 2x slimline m5 nuts (3mm depth) (used in the lid handle)
  • 4x m4 washers (used on the key knobs)
  • 2x m4 4mm bolt (used on the key cap to handle)
  • 2x m4 18mm bolts (used in the key knob to key cap)
  • 2x m4 nuts (used on the key knob to key cap)
  • 4x m4 12mm countersunk bolts (used on the body and base corners)
  • 4x m4 6mm countersunk bolts (used on the base central brace)
  • CA glue
  • Main filament - 1.1kg
  • Black - less than 1kg
  • Grey - less than 1kg
  • Silver - approx 400g

Build:

  1. Clip in an ARC connector to a base corner and snap it into one of the corners on the base
  2. Secure the corner with an M4 countersunk bolt through the corner post and base
  3. Slot a side into each corner - you may wanna dry fit this to start and then glue fit these side panels for final fit**
  4. Snap in 2 of the long ARC supports per side and build two halfs of the body
  5. Snap the two body halfs together with more ARC supports, you may want to glue them, but i'd wait till you've got the base and lid test fitted first.
  6. Once you have all four corners, sides and bases together, insert the base central plate and secure with some short m4 countersunk bolts
  7. Slide on the two handle top covers onto the handle ensuring a flush flat finish in the middle
  8. Insert two slim m5 nuts into the handle underside - these will be very snug
  9. Slot the handle into one side of the Lid top, secure with a 30mm m5 bolt through the lid side and into the nut in the handle
  10. Connect the two lid halfs together and secure tightly with a m5 bolt on the other end of the handle.
  11. Using m3 bolts through the top of the lid, thread them till they just protrude from the underside.
  12. Grab your lock top and attach it to the lid body with the m3 bolts. The plastic standoffs should be pointing down. 
  13. Again screw in the M3s until they just protrude from the lock top bottom side - the lock top and the lid body components MUST be tightly flush with each other, you can not afford gaps here.
  14. Turn it over so the bottom faced up and slot in the gear, with the protrusion pointing toward the top of the lid
  15. Slot on the lock latches in the closed flush to the sides position
  16. Slot on the lock lower section, the nut slots should be pointing down - (I found some little spring clamps very useful here) hold the whole assembly together tightly and thread through the m3 bolts till they bite, slot on a m3 nut and thread the bolt all the way. Back off each bolt a half turn.
  17. Glue the lid backer to the underside of the lid, overlapping the top layers join, make sure you dont get glue in the indentations*.
  18. Slot the key through the sub cap and click it so it is flush
  19. Align the cap arm and - holding together - thread in 2x m4 4mm bolts to attach these two pieces together
  20. Using a longer m4 bolt, thread the knob and 2 washers through the cap arm, secure with another nut, repeat for the other side
  21. You should now be able to pop the key assembly onto the lid and test the mechanism, if its mega stiff or doesnt move then you'll need to back off those 4 m3 bolts a little bit more. It should have resistance but not be stiff or stuck.
  22. Test fit this on the body to see if it latches closed ok and if you need to tidy up the edges to get it to fit.
  23. Once all is good, you can put on the glued decorative pieces - the studs and NIN name plate and number
  24. Finally screw in all of the nails, or glue and screw for additional security.* !!!NOTE!!! there are 24 reverse thread and 24 normal thread nails to print. the Reverse thread nails thread into the right hand side of each edge (thanks to @SimonG_2336530) for spotting this error and providing the inverted nail!)
  25. Install a packed lunch and go to work!

Options:
You could use M5 Eyebolts in the tops of the corners to attach a shoulder strap, but while making it more practical it does ruin the asthetics a bit.

You could use longer m5 bolts in the handles and secure a shoulder strap to that instead.

You can use some of the accessory parts internally to seperate your lunch out (future development)

Printing tips:
*The lid body and lid backer are really important to print accurately and without any lifting. Deformation in printing will stop the nails from screwing in correctly, meaning you will need to glue them in place instead.

**Shallow supports on the corner sections (studs and slot) and sides are required, it is important to remove the material fully from these pieces for the side to slot in the corners.

 

Notes:
This has possibly been the most fun design and build I've done yet, everything came together really well and it looks just amazing, in building it I accidentally scaled it much larger than anticipated, but its worked out looking fantastic and in real life it just feels like Quake.

While this model is dimensionally the same as my original model (see  below), because i lost my original files I had to rebuild the whole thing from scratch, and it turned out i hadnt build the original symetrically, so this was an improvement :)

 

Related Model: 

https://www.printables.com/model/242887-nailgun-quake-box

Tags



Model origin

The author marked this model as their own original creation.

License