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Premise

I'm an engineer. I figure things out for a living. But I also thrive on having a formula, so I got some whiplash to find the Slack Lack with minimal instructions for assembly. Once I was finished, I could say it all made sense -- starting off though, I was overwhelmed. In that vein, I wanted to write up what I did so that others would have some reference and not feel quite as daunted as I did.
\n The biggest gain here, I suspect, is the clarification of which numbered piece goes where, plus some of my \"this is how you shouldn't do it\" discoveries. :)

Slack Lack

Tips

If you're doing just the base Slack Lack, 1kg material should be fine (I used ~910g not counting failed prints); consider buying a second if you're doing more.
In the US, finding the appropriate magnets was terrible; finally I found part #BC41 at K&J Magnetics
When installing magnets, make sure the polarity is facing the right way. Personally, I didn't do this, and I got lucky that itonly bit me at the very end.
As pieces are being printed, number everything. Match these numbers with the exploded diagram of the assembly - you'll appreciate it later.
Before you glue anything make sure to dry-fit it all.
A lot of folks in the comments of the Slack Lack mentioned having trouble with PLA getting the joints to fit. (Some of this is likely fixed by tuning to the correct printer settings, but you may be here regardless.) If they come out too snug, the issue is probably on the outer post's inside - sand that, keep fitting it, and work it until it's smooth but not loose.
I had my plexiglass cut by the folks at Lowe's - and those precision cuts really left a lot to be wanted. Be prepared to either do it yourself or run the risk of inaccurate cuts that leave wriggle in the up/down or left-right. This is especially painful in the door pieces, which was very difficult to mitigate in my case.
When drilling my holes, I used a 5/32\" bit, though the official sizes are 1/8\" for #5 screws and 9/64\" for #6 screws. Always start smaller; you can go bigger, but you can't undo too-big.
To make sure my holes were the appropriate depth, I took whatever piece I was going to be screwing in, placed the screw through it, and lined it up with the drill bit. Anything past where the screw was got wrapped with masking tape as a marker for a stopping point.
When gluing the tracks on, I found that these didn't want to stay in place with the recommended Elmer's craft glue, so I used that paired with super glue to get a fast bond. This also helped make up for any looseness of the plexiglass and the track piece being fitted.
If you are anywhere near the sort of klutz I am, super glue is going to make a mess. Consider leaving all but the edges of the shield plastic on your door until all track pieces are totally installed. (Make sure not to install over the shield plastic, though!)\n*Calibration. It's so tempting to skip this - you've got a lot of pieces to print! But this is going to save you alot of heartache later, especially with the hinges. This means that if you haven't, you need to go through extruder calibration, a temperature tower, a retraction test, and a speed test. You can also use a (quicker but inherently less informative) all-in-one tester. I also really love this collection. But,no matter what, level your bed.\n### Preparation
\n
1. Print all the pieces, labeling as you go. (My total print time was ~102.5 hours. Mileage will, of course, vary depending on your settings.)
2. Dry-fit your pieces together. That includes hinges and magnet insets. If anything needs sanding to fit, do this now before you keep going. Dry-fit frequently to make sure you don't over-compensate and make something too loose.
3. Glue in your magnets. Again,double check the polarity! If you're concerned about the door latch, leave that one until the end.
4. Drill all of your holes up frontexcept for the front latch. This way, you'll get less sawdust in your enclosure, which will take a ton more cleanup later.
5. If you've planned on adding LED strips, consider installing those first. It's going to be hard to get in there to add things once the plexiglass is in place.\n### Top Layer Build
  \n
6. On the first tabletop, flip to the back side and screw in 2x #10, #11, and #19. Note that #19 is front right and #11 is front left.
  \n
7. Attach all 4 of the first set of legs. Make sure these are snug; mine came out wobbly and required further reinforcement (details TBD).
8. For each side, insert plexiglass and attach the respective bottom braces - #2, #8, #9, & #16. Start from the front and rotate around; you'll need to insert the plexiglass ahead of each piece you place in, excluding the last. Make sure that #9 is situated in the back right corner - this is where your cables come out.\n### Second Level Build
  \n
9. In the second tabletop, screw in each of the #25 feet; #26 foot should go in the back right corner to line up with #9. Note that the cable grip should be facing away from the back side of the table.
  \n
10. Install the legs on the bottom of the second tabletop. This one is awful - those double-ended screws are impossible to get a grip on. Instead, use your power drill, fit the screw into it like a bit, and use that to set them in the back of the tabletop. Release (like a bit), then hand-rotate the leg into the exposed side until it sits flush and tight against the tabletop. Repeat for all four legs.
11. Flip upright and place the first tabletop plus plexiglass construction on top.\n### Door Installation
  \n
12. Assemble the hinges with the appropriate pairing - #3 + #5 (bottom left), #12 + #13 (top left), #17 + #18 (bottom right), and #20 + #21 (top right). Slide each of these into their respective slots on the top and bottom front posts.
  \n
13. Slide the plexiglass into each, snugging everything into place.
14. Place the left top (#14 & #15) and bottom (#6 & #7) frame pieces, then the right top (#14 + #22) and bottom (#6 & #28) frame pieces. Validate fit (including sliding back as a pocket door), and consider any adjustments necessary to correctly fill your opening when done.
15. Picking one side, start on the bottom and glue the track pieces into place. You may want to lightly sand around this placement so as to give a rougher surface for the glue to adhere. It may also be helpful to press or squeeze the track pieces in place to encourage adhesion.
16. On the other side, glue the bottom track pieces into place, as in step 4.
17. On the top section, begin gluing the pieces into place. Make sure to raise your track pieces a little higher if the plexiglass isn't cut right - if you don't do this, you'll end up with a non-pocket-able door.
18. Repeat the other top section as in step 6.
19. Snap the door stop (#27) magnet against one of the doors; close this door, then the other. Validate placement matches what you'd like, open one of the doors carefully, and use a pencil to mark the holes clearly.
20. Drill to the appropriate depth for each door stop hole.
21. Install door stop.\nAdditional Required Components
\n

PSU Mount

If you're using the Ender 3, you're fine to use the original \"Ender 3 Remote PSU Mount,\" but if like me you've got a Pro,make sure to use the modified version, \"PSU Top Mount for Ender 3 Pro.\" Note that the original \"mount leg\" object is required for either version.

Print identified pieces.
Slide the \"mount top\" piece onto the CPU - check the original object's photos for reference, but it's going to go on the short end so that the plug + switch side is up against the leg.
Line up against one leg - this could be the left or right side depending on your model. (I realized here that mine was on the left, so I had to go back and switch the placement of the #26 piece and its paired foot from the table above it.) Screw this piece into the table above it.
Place the \"mount leg\" against the bottom, flat side up, flush against the PSU and the table leg. Screw this piece in as well.
(Optional) There are holes in three spots that seem to line up with the PSU for attachment, however the creator indicated it was made with the intention of being able to remove the PSU. If you choose, you can secure the PSU down with these screw points.\n### Filament Guide
\n
Several size options would work here; I went with the original 60mm wide slot. If you want a larger side to side, check out Ikea Lack Filament Guide \u00b1 90mm or ]Ikea Lack Filament Guide \u00b1 120mm.
\n
Print the single object as identified.
\n
Once the print is completed, line up the guide on top of your top Lack table, narrowest side touching the surface.
Using a pencil, trace around the opening to mark where the table needs to be cut.
Identify the best drill bit for this. You'll want something roughly the same size and the narrowest edge-to-edge.
Drill holes at the far right and left, then begin filling holes in throughout. You'll end up with some gap material not yet removed.
Remove the material in between the holes that have been drilled. This can be done one of two ways:
\n
- Using a box cutter, slice the sections out, moving down through the material until you go all the way through.
- Using the same drill bit, insert into one of the holes and while turned on, gentlypush to the side to remove the material. Take care not to push up or down, always going left and right, so that your opening doesn't become too big on the narrow side-to-side.
\n
(Optional) Sad the opening to remove splinters, snags, or discrepencies.
\n
Insert the filament guide.\n### Spool Holder

TBD

Optional Components

Extra Bottom Layer(s) Build

TBD

Lighting - LED Strips

Purchased Hardware: LED Strip is Ikea's LEDBERG LED light strip, white

Plan out where your LED strips are going to be placed. In my case, I used masking tape to temporarily hold the strips in place and mocked out the full length and where things would go. Make sure there will be no collisions with your sliding doors, and that your starting point lines up well with an exit point for the power (see Slack Lack piece #26).
Using the Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research, print enough clips to cover each section with minimal drooping between. In my case, I'm running up and down the sides of each leg, as well as along the top, except in the case of the front in which I only do theback of the leg.
Attach each clip with finishing nails or wood screws; attach the LED strips as you go for better gauge of placement and alignment.
Run the power for the strip out the same hole as the Ender 3's power supply cables.
Print Settings
\n

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3 Pro

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

.2mm

Filament: Inland PLA+ yellow
\nNotes:

For base Slack Lack parts, supports only required for pieces #11 & #19, per original design; infill 20% for all pieces.

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Full Build Instructions for Slack Lack (Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro) Plus Accessories

Model files

dummy.obj

dummy.obj

Model origin

Prusa "Slack Lack" Enclosure

License