City of Heroes - Classic Clockwork - Tesla Duke

Getting back into City of Heroes to build my Invention table also opened up possibilities to recreate some of the favorite old mobs and props from the game.

In this model we have the Clockwork from City of Heroes. There are many different versions of Clockwork mobs in game from small Cog's and Gears up to Tesla Dukes, Princes, not to mention the big Giant Monster Babbage who roams Boomtown and lastly, the King himself.

All of these gang use similar parts but different scaling and different selections of them.

This model is my 1st in the Clockwork and is closely based on the Tesla Duke and the Clockwork costume set you can get from halloween events. I intend to create new parts to convert this base model into Babbage, the Paladin, The Clockwork King and most of the other sub mobs as well.

The Classic clockwork were a low poly model, and i've respected that original design restriction in my recreation here, hence its pretty low level of poly detail on most things

This model is made possible with the supplimentary help of three other creators who made some critical joining parts and provided inspiration to create my final ball sockets which are used extensively throughout the model. 

Thanks @thrutheframe, @jornamon_310719 and @ChrisAeroEngineering for the model contribution and inspiration!

To build this you will need some extra parts, and when completed the Tesla Duke will stand around 500mm tall.

Some video resources of the build if anyone needs a walk through help:

Timelapse of construction

Right leg

Torso, Ribs, Shoulders and head

Limbs and  Final connections

Bill of Materials:

• 4x M4 30mm bolts (shoulder plates)
• 1x M8 25mm female connector bolt (pelvis ball socket)
• 1x M6 45mm threaded rod (pelvis)
• 2x M5 22mm bolts (top rib)
• 4x M4 16mm bolts (lower ribs)
• 4x M5 40mm bolts (shoulder and feet ball joints)
• 6x M5 nuts (shoulder bolt to lock arm in place)
• 5x M4 10mm countersunk bolts (head, arm and feet ball socket anchors)
• 2x M4 14mm countersunk bolts (leg hip joint ball socket anchor)
• 2x M8 25mm female connector bolt (hip ball joint)
• 2x M6 30mm threaded rod (hip ball joint to thigh)
• 2x M6 locking nuts (thigh to hip)
• 4x M5 29mm female connector bolts (elbows, knees)
• 4x M3 8mm bolt (elbows, knees)
• 4x M3 spring washers (elbows, knees)
• 4x M3 washers (elbows, knees)
• 8x M4 14mm sub bolt (elbows, knees)
• CA glue
• 1kg spool primary filament
• 2x secondary filament, no more than 500g per colour spool.

Build Overview:

• The knees and elbows are the same mechanism with some subtle model differences in the knees.
• The ball joints for shoulders and feet are the same.
• The ball joint for the hips are slightly larger than the feet and shoulder.
• The legs and arms can be built independently and then connected to the main body at the end.
• The decorative parts are glued to the main assembly, all the main jointed parts are replaceable and attached mechanically.
• Build all your elbows and knees first, then pay close attention to orientation of the parts in the legs and arms.
• Your filament choice will result in requiring light sanding on the joints, and other filaments will be fine with the existing tolorences.

Torso:

1. The ribs all have an orientation, so keep track of which way is down.
2. Fit the ribs large to small to the torso. The largest rib will clip in place, it doesnt even need the bolts to remain in place but its worth fitting them for robustness and to complete the look. This big rib should be perpendicular to the torso, if it curving up - its the wrong way round. The lower ribs all point downward.
3. Screw the pelvis ball joint bolt and threaded nut through the ball, remember to include the ball socket cap and then screw through the waist and pelvis piece. You can use a locking nut in the lower pelvis poopshoot but it threads into the plastic just fine if you want to skip this.
   !!When screwing in the pelvis, ensure you leave around 8mm of clearence between the waist piece and the torso for maximum movement and poseability!!
4. Screw in the pelvis socket to the torso with a m4 8mm bolt
5. Attach the pelvis assembly to the torso
6. Click in an ARC connector to the torso

Shoulders and Head:

1. Clip in 2 ARC connectors to the chest piece
2. Clip in the two shoulder balls to the chest assembly
3. Using the M4 m40mm bolts join the shoulder plates to the plate supports and finally to the chest piece
4. Connect an ARC clip to the head

Main Body:

!Warning! When you do this you will not be able to detatch the chest from the torso

1. Slide the chest Assembly down the torso rails and click home the two parts via the ARC connector in the torso (if you are test fitting, do not install the ARC clip until you're ready to finish the construction).
2. Bolt the head socket to the chest piece with an M4 10mm bolt
3. Clip in the head assembly to the chest assembly
4. Bolt the two arm shoulder ball sockets to the shoulder ball hex slots

Right Arm:

1. Snap in or glue the fingers to the hand
2. Glue in the decorative back panel to the hand
3. Clip in an ARC connector to the hand and clip it to the forearm
4. Glue in the decorative gear piece to the forearm
5. Make sure your elbow join is aligned to have the shield on the back of the joint and on the up side of the joint.
6. Push the elbow joint into the forearm, this will be snug, be careful and if it feels like its giving do not force it!
7. You can use a supplimentary M4 bolt to secure these if your joint is loose
8. Glue the upper arm parts together, the struts only fit in one way so dont force it
9. Slot the bicept assemble onto the upper elbow joint, again there is space for an M4 bolt to secure this if needed
10. Thread the M5 shoulder bolt through the ball, the capping nut and install 2 M5 nuts before you thread it into the upper section of the bicep.
11. Thread on a M5 nut to the outside and tighten this up, you may want to leave the two middle nuts floating for the moment so you can adjust where to lock the arm on the bolt once fully constructed (I used 50mm bolts here to allow for future adaption of parts, but 40mm is short enough)
12. Connect the arm to the Main Body assembly

Left Arm:

1. This arm is the same as the right, but simpler as the upper arm only has 1 part.

Legs:

1. The legs follow a similar build pattern as the arms, with threaded rods in the ball joints
2. The right foot has a small foot plate to add
3. Ensure you align the knee joints with the shield on the front side of the joint and on the lower side of the joint.
4. The Left Calf is quite thin, beef it up with 3 perimeters and 15% infil
5. The Left Calf is best printed vertically for dimensional accuracy, but this is weakest, test it vertically and horizontally to see which suits your printer best - I found on matt filament vertical was fine, but on normal pla it had to be horizontally printed.
6. The thigh to hip threaded rod uses a nut with locking plastic on it, this is needed to stop the hips slipping.
7. The calf has a slot for a standard non locking nut, its pretty snug mind, and i found i didnt need it.
8. Both legs have space to install a m4 bolt at the knee to keep the knee connected to the calf and thigh

Ball sockets:

1. The bolt going through the ball should thread the ball as it goes, this needs to be very tight.
2. The pelvis ball socket should be tight, very little play should be here to ensure the models core is stable
3. The shoulders, hips and knees can all be loosened to position them and retightend, if these parts wear out or break they are simple to replace.

Knees and Elbows:

1. Knee and elbow joints have shield on one side to stop reverse bending and these do help place the limbs in certain positions, again if they break they can be replaced but this will be very hard to do if the model was snug or glued.
2. Knee and elbow joints use compression on the main bolts from the smaller m3 bolts and washers to maintain tension but they will work loose - retighten the main bolt.
3. You can subsitute the m3 knee/elbow bolts for longer bolts to carry all the way through sides of the joint and increase resistance further and act as a locking bolt.
4. The knees have the shield on the lower side with the shield on the front.
5. The elbows have the shield on the upper side with the shield on the back.
6. !Warning! If you fit these parts to the forearms the wrong way round, they will break when you click them home.

Knee construction:

1. Gather 2 similar end caps, a shield joint, an opposing open joint, 2x m3 bolts, 1x spring washer, 1x m3 washer, 1x M5 29mm connector bolt, 1x m4 sub bolt.
2. Thread the 29mm connector bolt through one cap and the open joint part (the joint with no shield). press these together, ensuring you line up the offset m3 bolt holes
3. thread in an m3 bolt to secure the cap to the open joint.
4. Mount the shield joint on to the open joint bolt connector
5. align the remaining cap on the shield side and tighten down the connecting bolt.
6. thread a spring washer and m3 washer onto the m3 bolt and screw it through the cap and shield side tight. the spring washer should be between the bolt head and the m3 washer
7. double check tightness

The Elbows are the same construction with them being reversed in the final construction.