G305 Light and aesthetic

G305 ultralight with a Voronoi pattern
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updated May 18, 2021

Description

PDF

Remixed from:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4600978

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3823244

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3969266

 

I used the tinfoil and lithium battery for a big while and I was looking into making a battery holder to replace the very heavy one that comes with the mouse. As it is designed, the battery holder, the DPI button and the holder for the LED fiber optic thingy are all the same piece and you can see many ultralight mods that forgo the feature all together. Unacceptable.

For this mod you also need:

Battery holder by ZoroSeerus - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4585625
G305 midsection by Neol - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4622333

For the midsection, we only need the front part, but Neol's scan is the only one with the hole for the LED. I did a print test and it came out so well that I just cut the front piece.

All holes need retouching. The very front of the shell where it meets the flap needs to be finetuned until the flap fits and actuates properly. You will also need to cut the battery holder and part of the right shell support, you will see it when you get there.

I opted out of making a shell because being that PETG and PLA are pretty dense, I was struggling to get weight loss with an amount of holes that I liked. I also opted out of printing the flaps because they don't turn out so well.

 

Print Settings

Printer:

Artillery Genius

Rafts:

Yes

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.12

Infill:

20

Filament brand:

Eolas Prints

Filament color:

Light Orange

Filament material:

PLA

Notes:

For the shell, at the slicer tip the shell forwards for it to touch the bed to get a better overhang between the supports and the shell. The voronoid pattern and the massive amounts of support material make this print a bit hard in anything but PLA.

For the mid section I used PETG from Amazon Basics. Material does not matter.

The button is a very simple print as well. I like to tip it so the upmost layer matches the top of the button.

 

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