Girl valet stand for Ikea Kura bed

YOUR VALET WILL LOOK LIKE THE RENDER, NOT LIKE THE PHOTO ;)

Stupid me realized I measured the height wrong AFTER printing all the parts, So I had to get creative with pipe lengths and the result looks a bit more stocky than I intended, my daughter still loves it… hooray for body positivity! 

I regenerated the STLs and double checked the  pipe lenghts in CAD so you get the right proportions, thanks in advance to anyone who helps me validate this with a make.

I designed this for my daughter's bedroom. She loves it and I hope yours can enjoy it too ;)

It is a valet stand to mount inside the frame of the Ikea Kura bed.

The frame is made with aluminum tubes from the hardware store, with 3d printed joints and minimal hardware, see the BOM down below where I also listed the lengths for cutting the tubes.

The outline is shaped like a girl figure, with horizontal beams to hang clothes on. 

The shoulders of the figure can hold a sweatshirt  if it has a zip or buttons, but since the top is closed by the ikea frame I also added a pommel for a coats hanger  so it can hold dresses or closed sweaters. There is a hole on the back of the pommel to reinforce it with an M5x30 screw, but it is not a must.

The top and bottom plates attach to the frame via M4x30 wood screws, 2 for the top, 3 for the base.

I include a gauge marked with “T” and “B” holes to mark the position of the holes so that the two parts stay aligned (the labels are on the bottom side when using the gauge, but the pattern is easy enough). As indicated on the gauge, the minimum distance from the vertical strut on either side is 80 mm (CAD says that's actually 75ish, if you feel daring).

You can reprint the parts, but you cannot reprint the bed frame, take your time marking the spots, and I strongly advise drilling pilot holes for the screws. 

Both male and female joints between printed parts and aluminum tubes are friction fit.

The frame is not perfectly rigid but once all the parts are in place, they don't have anywhere to go, it flexes a fair bit but it stays together.

HOWEVER, I desinged these around the specific brand of aluminum tube which my hardware store happens to have at the moment, you may have to sand a bit or add some glue as needed.

Since the joints are round, they are split in half for printability.

The tubes at the extremities should be enough to keep the the two halves of each joint together and aligned, but again, if your tubes are a bit loose feel free to glue the two halves together as well, you can use a bit of tube at each end to constrain them in the correct alignment when glueing.

The base has chamfers allowing it to be printed both standing or flat on one side. Printing upright guarantees the best accuracy for the pipe holes, printing flat will give the best looking curves… I went with the former and have no regrets.

Bill of Materials

Total of 1.8 metres of aluminum tubes (1737 mm but realistically two 1 meter bars), 12 mm external diameter, 10 mm internal 

5x M4x30 Wood screws

1x M5x30 SHCS screw (optional)

Tube cut sizes 

2x 168 mm (legs)

2x 30 mm (skirt corner)

1x 175 mm (skirt bottom)

4x 93 mm (skirt sides)

1x 240mm (skirt middle) 

1x 122mm (waist) 

2x 112 mm (shoulders)

2x 176mm (torso)

1x 80 mm (neck)