WIP: I try to finish and add the lid in the coming days.
I designed a box to house a power-supply, Raspberry Pi4 and a micro-controller board for Hyperion/HyperHDR.
I used this guide (see below) to build my HyperHDR setup and needed a housing for the electronics. I tried to make it sturdy but not so filament hungry. The box needs around 240g of filament and the lid (work in progress) around 60g.
HyperHDR Box v1.1 is 5mm wider to make more room around the mains connector (i had to dremel mine in v1 :-)). The 5mm extra give enough room to add some 5015 fans to one side to blow over the components. It can all run passively cooled, but it gets a little to hot for my taste.
I chose an Adafruit ItsyBitsy RP2040 as the LED controller because it has an built in 5V level-shifter. I made a “daughterboard” for it, so i can swap it out easily. The daughterboard is mounted with a printed adapter above the Pi.
M3 heat inserts are used for the power-supply and lid. For the Pi i used M2.5 heat inserts.
(The picture shows v1.0 of the box which is a 5mm narrower and has some defects because my nozzle clogged (duh).)
HyperHDR project guide: https://www.hyperhdr.eu/2023/02/ultimate-guide-on-how-to-build-led.html
HyperHDR github: https://github.com/awawa-dev/HyperHDR
HyperSerialPico github: https://github.com/awawa-dev/HyperSerialPico
My fork of the HyperSerialPico for the Adafruit ItsyBitsy RP2040: https://github.com/Brembo109/HyperSerialPico_ItsyBitsy
BOM for my Box:
optional:
Print settings used on my Ankermake M5:
Changelog:
v1.0: Initial release.
v1.1: Made the box 5mm wider and the cutout for the RP2040 cable a little bit taller. Shifted the mains connector a little to the left to avoid altering it with a dremel.
v1.2: Added standoffs for a step-up buck converter to power some 12V or 24V fans. The standoffs are 15mm high, so you can route the Raspberry Pi USB-C cable below the buck converter.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.