Anet A8 Plus Y axis tensioner

UPDATE 03282024:  Hunter the coyote was kind enough to post covers to fit between this model and the Y axis linear rod mounts.  His cover pieces are at:  https://www.printables.com/model/823645-anet-a8-plus-dressup-kit-addon-for-printed-y-axis

The bulk of V-Slot covers I use on the Anet A8 Plus are located at:  https://www.printables.com/model/817364-anet-a8-plus-dressup-kit

UPDATE 03272024:  Hunter the coyote pointed out a discrepancy in the length of the idler arm piece of this design.  When I published this design on Thingiverse, the idler arm I'd posted was 47mm long.  The idler arm I posted here on Printables, which is the part I'm currently using on my machine is labeled as “Version 2”, and is 44mm long.  Aside from perhaps installing a longer Y axis belt on my A8 Plus, I can't think of why I may have shortened that part.  I'm guessing that I added the embossed letter “Y” to the version 2 file so I wouldn't confuse the part with the very similar design I made for the X axis.  I'm uploading the original part that I've got on Thingiverse so that there will be two options to choose from.  I'm suggesting that you start with the version 2 file of the idler arm as that's the part currently installed on my machine, but if it's too short for your Y axis belt to reach, the longer arm is now available for download here.  My apologies if I've caused any undue grief to anyone using this design.

I originally modeled this as a "proof of concept" for the steel frame build I'm doing to my classic Anet A8, but it worked so much better than the cumbersome double wingnutted tensioner that came with the A8 Plus, I'm posting it here.

The receiver portion of this model attaches to a 20x20 aluminum extrusion, as is the case for the A8 Plus, using three M4 X 8mm socket head screws and T nuts. Note: For ease of assembly, I slip the single T-nut that goes in the front face of the frame, then pre-install the top two screws and T-nuts to the receiver before attaching it. I run the front screw into the seated T-nut as I'm installing the receiver, then I tighten all 3 screws. Trying to install the receiver with all 3 screws and T-nuts attached may prove rather difficult.

A M4X 40mm hex cap screw must be fed through the idler arm and nutted before attaching the two piece idler bearing to the arm with a M3x16mm socket head screw and m3 nut. The assembled idler arm is then inserted to the receiver, a M4 washer installed, then finally the knob with a M4 nut pre-inserted.

I published this model originally June 12, 2023 on another popular 3D modeling site, but unfortunately, that site is not exactly viable anymore so I'll be moving the bulk of my work here and hope that this site will age better. 

NOTES FOR PRINTING:  The receiver and idler arm print as oriented STL's without supports. The knob prints as oriented in the STL but with supports to build plate, wish is very easily removed and doesn't require much material. I print all my printer parts with 100% infill.  “hunter the coyote” just showed me a photo of his receiver portion of this model with a crack in it.  I thought, given how thick I made that piece that it might be O.K. with less infill, but I think it best to print at 100%, especially if you're printing this in PLA.