This is an optimized version of the "Mechanical Planetarium" model by Zippitybamba. His original model is on Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4613061
I printed a few parts of the original model on my Prusa I3 MK3S, and I wasn't satisfied with how they fit. This sent me down a rabbit hole of refactoring and tuning the file until I could print it with insanely low tolerances of about 0.12mm on average.
The original model is truly excellent and deserves to be on the main page for a long time. I put in a lot of time tuning this, so I thought I should share what I've done.
A quick summary of edits:
Added several customizer sliders to:
Adjusted the length of the Venus planet arm (by 1mm) so the peg doesn't collide with the idler wheel above it.
I also wrote a quick Windows Batch file to generate all 47 files. A word of warning; It will absolutely hammer your processor since it opens a separate copy of OpenSCAD in the background for each file. If you know your way around OpenSCAD, then I'm assuming that you know how to read and use a batch file. "Here be dragons."
Update: I identified a small issue with the inner pegs on the Calendar Gear. They were protruding 0.1mm above the center bearing. This would not be an issue for 99% of people printing the model, but I fixed the file and posted an update. If you're printing at anything larger than 100% or a layer height below 0.2mm, take a look at your preview.
Update 2: I fixed an issue with non-uniform scaling of the printable planets in the SCAD file.
Printer Brand: Prusa
Printer: I3 MK3S
Rafts: No
Supports: No
Resolution: 0.4mm Nozzle. Layer Varies: 0.2mm and 0.25mm
Infill: 15% Grid
Filament: Prusament, Mika3D, and Sain Smart PLA
Notes:
I generally used three perimeters for all objects with the exception of the Mercury Axle. I used five perimeters for that so it would print essentially solid with no fast infill moves. I split the Mercury Axle in half and printed it vertically one piece at a time. I joined the halves using a small piece of aluminum rod that I wedged into the hole in the middle.
I also tweaked my perimeter extrusion widths extensively so it would always print full perimeters. In PrusaSlicer it's on the "Advanced" tab under "Print Settings". I adjusted the "Perimeters" and "External Perimeters" while checking the preview until the white "Gap Fill" was replaced with a yellow perimeter.
Watch out for Elephant's Foot. If you're using PrusaSlicer, go back into your Advanced Print Settings and adjust the "Elephant foot compensation" until you have a crisp bottom edge.
If you use Cura, or some other slicer, poke around in your settings and look for similar options.
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.