After playing a board game with my group where we spent more time trading tokens with the bank than playing, we decided we wanted a generic board game counter to make things easier, then I got carried away.
The hinges and latch print in place and the entire unit should flex nicely after it is removed from the print bed. If it is damaged (or fails to print properly), the latch can be cut at the recessed point and removed, and another printed and snapped into position.
For the single color prints with paper inserts version print:
To function properly the inserts pdf needs to be scaled properly. Turn off fit to page, and change scaling to none. If the printer still prints it at the wrong size (brother probably) measure the result and scale as needed.
Then insert the paper into the recess of the frame and snap a grid into place over the top (chamfer up.) Depending on your printer you may need to sand the edges of the grid slightly , or scale the grid, to make it fit nicely.
For the Multimaterial version print (the model is designed for a 0.2 mm layer height, so may not work quite right):
It requires no inserts or other work after. For lighter frame colors blocks of color from the number sections will show through the back of the frame, as there are only 2 layers beneath it. But as no one will ever see the back side while it is on the table, I did not see this as a problem.
I suggest purchasing acrylic 8mm cubes from the boardgamegeek store or other suppliers https://boardgamegeekstore.com/products/translucent-plastic-cubes-8-mm but have included a printable one for use as well.
-Font is Gill Sans MT bold, as it was the first font I found that had a consistent stroke width and was closed vectors so my program could extrude it.
The author hasn't provided the model origin yet.