This model should be printed using a rigid filament. It can be printed in PLA, but 4 perimeters, extra top and bottom layers and a minimum of 30% infill is recommended. If printed in PLA, expect wear to occur with usage, however I think you should get at least several uses out of it. The final version for this was printed on a Prusa XL using the predefined “0.32mm STRUCTURAL @XLIS 0.6” with the above modification in PLA.
It is important to deburr all parts for best results.
- The only assembly of the 3D printed parts needed is to insert the Spring Latch into the Back Plate.
- The longest bridge (about 14mm) is in the Back Plate where the Spring Latch is inserted. If the Spring Latch will not insert into the Back Plate, make sure you do not have excessive bridge sag. Sag of more than 0.8mm might cause issues.
-If for some reason the pins will not fit into the Back Plate holes, reprint the pins at 99% or 98% of the original size on all axis; 99% will give you an extra 0.15mm clearance on the Large Pin and about 0.1mm on the Small Pin.
The pictures here and in the documentation may vary slightly from the current/latest published version of the printable objects.
Revision 1.1: Added vertical “Skid Ribs” to the plates to help prevent rip-out of perimeter edge caused by the Hurst Springs catching on them.
The author remixed this model.
This version improves on a design by Paul Cangialosi (YouTube: GearboxVideo): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Rv_cO6Edu8
- NO NEED for a 3/8" square shim
- NO NEED for a modified putty knife.
- NO NEED for bolts or nuts.
- Provides better alignment of the springs and washer.
- Generally faster to assemble a shifter.
Note that this will take longer to print than Paul's version.