Spring-loaded Vinyl Cutter holder with hotswap mount for Ender 3 S1

A vinyl cutter attachment for a 3D printer needs to have two key features:

• Spring tensioning to compensate for bed level issues (You can never get a 3D printer bed as flat as a Cricut or Silhouette cutting area)
• A very snug fit for the vinyl cutter so that there is minimal backlash when executing moves

This is the simplest design I could make that deals with both scenarios, and does so extremely well. In testing, I can reliably get vinyl to cut with dimensions of ~200 microns, and with luck and patience, I've had some pieces come out at ~120 microns.

You can get away with sticking this onto the side of a printer hotend, but the best results come from swapping the hotend out entirely and placing the vinyl cutter as close to the X axis as possible. This removes any torsional moments that hurt accuracy. 

Requirements:

• A Vinyl cutter housing and blades like this one
• A spring from an old pen - The cheaper and weaker, the better. You want the spring to be just capable of pushing the cutter down against gravity. Make sure your spring is larger than the little nub at the top of the vinyl cutter
• 4x M3 screws (if you want, you can borrow the ones from your 3D printer, use them to position the pieces together, glue them together, then remove the screws)
• This hotswap mount if you've got an Ender 3 S1 (or similar with Sprite hotend), otherwise you'll need to make your own mounting bracket to hold the pieces on

Printing:

• The tolerances for this are intentionally tight and designed for you to go in afterwards with some sandpaper or a file until the vinyl cutter just fits with as little slack as possible
• 0.2mm layer height
• 0.4mm line width
• Anything >10% infill. The sturdier the better
• Print one at a time
• Supports are required for the backplate clip. 

Assembly:

1. Sand the insides of both hollow sections until the bottom of the vinyl cutter fits into the shorter housing, and the top of the vinyl cutter fits into the taller housing. The flared bases of the housings should be at the bottom. The fit should be as close as possible without the cutter catching on the insides. 
2. Screw the short housing into the bottom of the backplate so that the bottom edges line up. 
3. Make sure your vinyl cutter's blade is at the right height; it should just peek out at the bottom of the housing. You should be able to drag it over a piece of vinyl by hand and it should only cut the vinyl and not the backing paper. This is important! If it's sticking out too much you'll be in for a headache-inducing time trying to tune your Z-offsets later in 0.005mm steps
4. Place the vinyl cutter inside the housing, then slide the top housing over the top. 
5. This is the tricky part; your screw holes almost certainly won't line up perfectly, so play with the tilt slightly until everything is sliding smoothly, then tighten the screws
6. Take the large hex screw and place your pen spring inside it. If it's too loose, you might need a bigger spring (or add a few drops of glue /blutack in the bottom to keep it centered
7. Screw the hex screw into the top. Hold the housing upside down and press the vinyl cutter in from the bottom. Keep tightening until the spring can reliably push the vinyl cutter back up against your finger every time you push it down. 

Additional (Optional):

Set up Klipper to swap between the two modes easily, follow the steps here

Custom software for Windows to generate cutting/drawing GCode from SVGs (and optionally send straight to Klipper) here