Bambu Lab P1 / X1 Series Modular Bentobox Aux Fan (4/10/2023)
Designed a modular second aux fan / bentobox for Bambu Lab printers. Assuming a lot of people will upgrade their P1P to the P1S, they will most likely have 2 aux fans now and this could be a good use for the 2nd one!
Use the dual aux when printing PLA or filaments that need cooling in a non-enclosed setting. Switch over to the bentobox when printing enclosed with filaments that can release unpleasant or harmful odors. The bentobox will recirculate the air, passing it through the filters and ideally removing any odors.
This will only fit on the right side of the printer! You cannot mirror to work on the left, where the original fan goes, as the frame rails are are different heights ( among other things).
Contents
Updates
Files
Additional Parts
Printing Information
Assembly
Wiring Options
Future Update (8/15/2023)
Working on an update that will mount the fan to the side panel. Now that P1 users have that option, it will be a faster print, save filament and save space if the fan base is no longer need.
See “Test” folder, currently waiting on the new panels to verify fitment - 8/25/2023
Update 7/28/23
Finished the design for the upgraded fan ducts that provide airflow to the back, middle, and front of the build plate
DO NOT USE PLA, IT WILL BREAK. Please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc.
I used Polylite Pro PLA+
Set your K calibration and adjust setting based on your filament
Quality
Please see build plate file.
Support
Please see build plate file.
Other
Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues, its already configured in the print file so please go over the settings first.
* To remove the support from the fan top , I just used pliers and pulled the support out which was pretty easy. Sometimes some of the support stuck but it was easy to clean up with a small knife. The supports on the 2 larger tabs on the fan casing should looked at after the supports are removed, just make sure it's clean on the bottom side since these tabs are what hold it tight against the fan stand.
Assembly
Remove the fan from casing, remove the sticker over the wiring and redirect the wiring as shown below. Don't put the fan in the printed case yet.
Glue in the 24 magnets
3 on the stand
6 on the carbon box
8 on the HEPA box
4 on the HEPA cover
1 on the back plate
Place the fan into the new casing, make sure the fan is centered by using the alignment poles
Attach the back plate using re-using the 3 screws that originally held the fan into the casing. Tighten the screws 90% of the way making sure the backplate can still move a little.
Slide the upper assembly onto the fan stand, same way as the OEM aux fan and use the 2 longer screws that come with the aux fan to tighten the case against the stand. Then make sure the back plate is squared up and tighten the 3 screws the remainder of the way.
MOVE THE BUILD PLATE ALL THE WAY DOWN FOR THE NEXT STEPS
The stand connects to the floor via lining up the L shape cutout with the L shape extrusion on the floor. There is also a caution sticker and under that sticker is a hole that we will use to screw the stand to the floor. I re-used 1 of the 2 shorter screws that came with the aux fan.
Assemble the carbon box, HEPA box, HEPA cover.
Rotate filter cover around ( the protrusion gets in the way of the bentobox) or use on the the below models
To use the bentobox, slide the assembly onto the fan casing. The top of the HEPA filter cover needs to overcome the protrusion on the frame so it takes a little bit of force to push into place. Then use 2 M3x6 to hold in place.
Once everything is printed, in place, and screwed down, the model will clear the printing plate.
Dual Aux
Slide the fan top onto the fan casing and use 2 M3*6 screws to hold into place.
Once everything is printed, in place, and screwed down, the model will clear the printing plate.
Wiring Options
Option 1- Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Bambu Studios to control the fan.
Follow the instructions to remove the back plate to plug in the aux fan. The fan plugs into Fan 1 while the original aux fan is plugged into Fan2
Cable manage the wiring
Bambu Studio
So I know you can change the Gcode to make it work with the fan which is “M106 P3 S0 ; turn off chamber fan” (option 2 below) but you can also change the config to make it show up in Bambu Studio.
Under "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false," change it to true ""FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : true," . Notepadd++ will ask to change this under administrator, click yes and save the file.
Re-open Studio and on the device screen you'll now see the chamber fan which is what we'll use to control the 2nd aux fan.
For the bentobox air flow, you only need to set a fan speed until you feel a breeze coming out of the top filter.
Option 2 - Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Gcode to control the fan.
Same wiring as above but instead of changing the config file for Studios we change the gcode. This was suggested from @bjws_297864:
Remove the filament start code that modifies the chamber fan and added this to the end of the printer start gcode:
;========turn on chamber fan to filter VOCs ============= {if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ABS" || filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ASA" } M106 P3 S50 ; set chamber fan to 20% {endif}
Option 3 - Wire the 2nd aux fan to the original aux fan. This way both fans are controlled as one without needing to change any code. This is how I have mine set up.
Bambu wiring = Dark grey (GND) , Black (+), light grey ( tach) , white (pwm)
Bambu
JST MX 1.25
+
Black
Red
-
Dark Grey
Black
Tach
Light Grey
Yellow
PWM
White
White
As pointed out by @MozzieT_1023044 if you're wiring the 2nd fan into the existing one, it's probably best to only connect the PWM wire and not the Tach wire. The speed readout may get a bit confused as to the actual fan speed if the two fans pulses don't align for whatever reason. I still have my 2nd tach wire connected without any issues but I do plan on disconnecting it next time I take my panel off. -9/8/2023
Behind the power panel, there are two screws under -V and +V that aren't being used. I just wrapped the wire around these screws and tightened down. You should use a terminal ring but I didn't.
And finally how it all looks wired up:
That's all!
If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to Buy Me a Coffee or PayPal would be greatly appreciated!
As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.